Wed. 4/16/03 Lahaina, Maui<br> <br> We were up early at 6:30 A.M.. The ship had arrived at Lahaina, Maui. We are anchored in the bay, like so many whaling ships before us. The crew would have to use tenders to get us all ashore. We had breakfast on our balcony, in the warm Hawaiian sun, before getting ready for the day. We wanted the major tours to get underway before we headed ashore. It was going to be hot today.<br><br> We walked down to deck five and boarded the motorized tender for the short ride to the Lahaina docks. These “tenders” are wholly enclosed lifeboats that are capable of ocean sailing in an emergency. They can seat almost 90 people and are a bit removed from the old “lifeboats” that ships used to carry. The sea was calm this morning, so getting on and off the tender was pretty easy. When the waves are choppy, the boat can rise and sink several feel, in an instant, making getting on and off interesting, especially for the older folks on board.<br><br> In Lahaina, one is first taken with the emblems of the islands whaling past. The four masted sailing vessel “Carthaginian,” used in the movie “Hawaii,” is anchored prominently in the center of the “old village.” A commercial chandlery and ancient courthouse take up the center of the small village. A huge Banyan tree shelters much of the area with its large leafy umbrella. One can only speculate at all of the events, legal and foul, that must have transpired under its shelter. Radiating outward are collections of small commercial shops, hawking the usual tourist wares, and several streets of small, neat homes. We browsed some shops for a bit and then hopped a cab to nearby “Whaler’s Village” on Ka'anapali beach.<br><br> There is a geographical provenance to the area’s whaling past. Molokai, Maui and another of the small islands lie close to each other here. The small basin between them is shallow and became an ideal breeding ground for the sperm whales from time immemorial. They spawn here from December through April and then in May, begin their swim up to the Aleutian Island chain. Whale blubber and whale oil fueled the lamps of Europe and America during the 1800’s, until the advent of mass production of electricity. Ambergris, a whale product was also a base for the manufacture of several perfumes. Lahaina became a rough and tumble port for whalers from across the globe. Hard drinking, hard living and men who had been at sea for a year had their effect on the local populace both in terms of quality of life and gene pool additions.<br><br> The scenery along the roadway to the village was soft and green. Several golf courses and rows of expensive condos and hotels line Ka’anapali beach. It is perhaps the most luxurious portion of the island. Whaler’s Village was not what we were expecting. It is a modern, tri-level shopping court of high priced shops like Versace, Ferragamo, Tiffany and Gucci. I wonder what the old whalers would think of the place? We browsed the shops for a time and then discovered a small whaling museum on the second level. Harpoons, scrimshaw (carved whale bone) abounded in small exhibits that told you everything you would ever want to know about whale blubber, whaling and the industry that surrounded it. It is interesting and worth a stop.<br><br> The village square opens onto Ka’anapali beach. We walked the paved ocean path, along the beach, enjoying the swaying palms, the flowering hibiscus, the neatly manicured lawns of the huge hotels and the general aura of opulence. This is everyone’s ideal vision of Hawaii. The Marriott, Sheraton, Hyatt and Maui Ocean Shores are beautiful in their landscaped elegance. We stopped at the Marriott for coffee on the ocean and watched the comings and goings of the many vacationers. This is where we would return for an extended stay. Golf courses, shopping, trendy restaurants and the finest white sand, that California could supply, make K’anapali beach a comfortable and elegant escape from the everyday grind. The surfers, divers and swimmers enjoyed their recreation while the sunbathers reveled in the warm hot Hawaiian sun.<br><br> We hiked back along the two-mile ocean path and stopped for lunch at “Leilani’s” overlooking the ocean at the entrance to Whaler’s Village. Ice tea, great Caesar salads and even some verboten French fries made for a good lunch. ($32) We browsed some shops and then caught the public bus for a slow ride back to Lahaina. We had enjoyed this low-key, unhurried look at Maui, without the hustle and commotion of a guided tour. It gave us a softer look at a place that deserves to be further explored on another occasion.<br><br> In Lahaina, we bought some souvenirs, a few bottles of Merlot and then headed back to the docks for a short tender ride to the Dawn Princess. The seas were roughening more this afternoon. The rapid rise and fall of the tenders, up against the dock and ship, made it a challenge for the tender’s crew to off loads its aging passengers onto the ships gangway.<br><br> It was mid afternoon, and I was feeling better today, so we sunned for a time on the aft portion of deck 12 and even caught a refreshing dip in the small pool in the health spa. It was lazy and relaxing. It was the way a day on Maui should be spent, easy and soft like the landscape.<br><br> At 6:00 P.M., we were topside to have a ritual glass of wine as the Dawn Princess weighed anchor and set sail for the “big island” of Hawaii. My binoculars spotted an oddity in the emerald hills above the port. A Large “L” had been created by clearing the vegetation form an area on the hillside. I guess it serves as aerial confirmation that the port was indeed Lahaina. The emerald hills of Maui faded into the golden sunset as we stood at the ships deck 14 rail and watched the gilded sunset. We met and talked with Marty and Tom Bleckstein, who live on Maui and were aboard for the cruise to Tahiti. Marty is a photographer and Tom, a developer. It is these incidental meetings shipboard, either at dinner or casually, that much enhance the entire experience.<br><br> We repaired to our room to prep for dinner in the Deck 5 Florentine room. Fiume Blanc led us into a salmon and leeks appetizer, green salads, filet of Mahi Mahi and then New York Cheesecake made for a memorable repast. Jon was our waiter again this evening and we exchanged a “Magandang Gabi” (good evening) and “Mabuti, salamat” (I am fine, Thanks) in Tagalog. <br><br> The sea was roughening and the boat wallowing from side to side. The day had tired us and we retired early to read and surrender to the sandman. It had been a leisurely and pleasant day in Maui. We plan to return someday for a longer look.<br><br>Thursday, 4/17/03 Hilo, Hawaii<br><br> <br> <br><br> <br><br> <br> <br><br><br><br> <br><br> <br><br><br><br>