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In January, my husband and I spent a week at the Sugar Mill Hotel and found the property very attractive, clean, friendly and intimate. We prefer smaller places but also appreciate good service. The property contains about 22 units. Our accommodation was a "family suite", like the "deluxe suite" except with a separate bedroom. The generous living room had a pullout couch, a dining area and efficiency kitchenette with mini refrigerator and gas stove. Floors are ceramic tile. The bath had a spacious walk-in shower. The unit also had a generous tile patio with 4 chairs and a great view of Jost van Dyke across the bay plus sunset views over the west end. We made sure to be on the balcony for sunset when we could. The small but pleasant outdoor, unheated swimming pool was a few steps down the hill, but landscaping provided mutual privacy. Plenty of chaises and umbrella tables were available plus 2 cotton hammocks; a "crowd" was 6 people. A covered area with tables provided shaded reading space, as did 3 connecting gazebos near the restaurant, next to the bar. The old sugar mill, now the famous restaurant, is attractively decorated with well-spaced tables, open only for dinner. A terrace room adjacent to the restaurant is open for breakfast and is delightful with views of the beach and bay. Food here was wonderful--choices ranged from rum French toast to a healthy "smoothie." Lots of pelicans actively fish the bay and are fun to observe. Lunch is available at "Islands," an open air beach restaurant across the street. In prime season, it serves a limited supper menu. Most menu items seemed to have been prepared elsewhere and heated or fried. This restaurant was nice because of its proximity to the water. One evening, we sat about 20 feet from a pounding surf. Families enjoyed this restaurant as well because children could eat, then go play in the beach and still be within a few feet and plain view of the family table. The Sugar Mill dinner menu was everything we had heard and more. It was hard to eat moderately with so many creative choices. Seafood cornucopia appetizer was a mix of lobster and small shellfish, nicely seasoned and wrapped in a flatbread. Breads were fresh and tasty. Each evening's menu was different, usually 4-6 entrees, with the most choices on Saturday. New Orleans food is amazing and so is the Sugar Mill's. The owners, the Morgans, come from a background of writing for Bon Apetit magazine, and oversee a fine kitchen.<br>Another nice aspect of staying at Sugar Mill was the full time concierge, Lejanne, who had literally books of ideas plus firsthand experience with most of the activities. We had purchased the "Adventure package" which included a jeep rental, day sail, 4 dinners, bottle of rum, cookbook, gourmet picnic lunch and Lejanne made sure we kept up! She also made reservations when necessary. Nice touches were the shelves of books and games available to guests, as well as a small gift shop with essentials and some art work. Driving was an adjustment--first, the left side (British style) and second, the seemingly vertical hills with some narrow roads and hairpin turns. All were navigable once we got used to it. Rainy day driving might be better avoided we were told. Views all over the island were spectacular. So much beauty! We kept stopping to photograph the high vistas of sea and islands. Shopping was not a priority for us so just made a quick foray through Road Town and bought very little. The Sunny Caribbee Art shop was nice. Cruise ship visitors see only Road Town, which is too bad because it's not very appealing; if they take a tour, they will have a much better <br>impression of the unique loveliness of Tortola. In a week of relaxing, eating, driving we didn't see nearly enough and hope to return. The Sugar Mill was a great place to begin our introduction to the island. We saw the West End, sailed from Soper's Hole to Jost van Dyke with Robin Pingold on the Kuralu--that was a terrific experience!--drove to Smuggler's Beach, drove the mountain road and wondered at all the goats and roosters that eat precariously on the steep hillsides. We visited Cane Garden Bay, Brewers Bay but missed Josiah's Bay and Lambert Beach--something to look forward to. Safety was never a question. Except for keeping our money with us and leaving our return tickets at the hotel safe, we did not take other precautions, in fact seldom locked the room all week. Maid service was daily and thorough. Dirt didn't have a chance. One day we heard the maid, Rita, robustly singing hymns as she cleaned next door! Relaxation or adventure, both choices available! Combination worked for us. The excellent oversight of Patrick, the manager, has this hotel running very efficiently and affords a superlative guest experience.<br>If anyone has questions, feel free to email me linmarble@net1plus.com.<br><br>