We’ve been back for a week but this trip report was delayed by the intestinal bug that came back with me…all better now.
This was Kelly’s first; my last trip to the BVI was ’99. Some of you may remember I came back on TTOL last summer with several issues and questions; not the least of which the impact of rotator cuff surgery on handling the Moorings 322 with an inexperienced crew of one…bottom line? All the rehab went well and we had a great time!
Friday the 21st:
Delta was a few minuets early and the bags came out in record time…taxi to the ferry; first pain killer and off on the Road Town Fast Ferry. R/T Customs was no big problem but they were a little interested in my two steel and plastic knees beeping the metal detector...she asked if I had a medical card when I explained US TSA did not require a card but frisked me each time and smiled…she declined and sent me on my way. Kelly said: “will you please behave”.
Moorings had everything ready to go; which was a good thing since I was wheels up at 05:45 Houston time and Kelly took off at 06:00 Ft Myers time we were fast running out of gas and could only think of food, drink and bed.
We did the evening start to get off early for a mooring at Cooper since it was Kelly’s first time to assist with a mooring or anchor I wanted to have time for options.
Moorings did a great job; the boat (Princess) was clean and ready to go, bunks were made, we had a good breeze on the new pier and they had a bottle of Pusser’s and Pusser’s Pain Killer Mix. The Moorings remodel while not complete boasts the very best marina showers I have seen any where in the world! The facility has 10 private rooms with very nice Euro fittings and plenty of clean towels.
Only four boats attended the 7pm briefing that went off without a hitch (I made a point of asking about the Baths park moorings he said no problem and we did not have to leave anyone on board?)…I had already made up my mind to spend two nights at Leverick and rent a car to see VG and the Baths. As it turned out it was blowing like stink and no one was on the park balls.
If I have a negative comment about both the charter briefing and boat check out it is: both were cursory and did not convey much info. I don’t see how they have any idea of the captain and crews experience and sailing ability?
Rite Way was right on time and the order was almost 100% as specified (we would use them again).
A very long (21 hour) day ended with a beer, glass of wine light dinner and hit the rack.
Saturday the 22nd:
Island Surf and Sail showed right on time with our rental items and we are good to go (note; I did not need the igloo cooler Moorings now will give you one…I didn’t say anything and kept the requested cooler from ISS)
Now begins the fun for a brand new green crew in a little M322; the forecast 17 to 22 knots out of the NE! Double reef in the main and off to Cooper; needless to say it was a quick trip, the wind reminded me how much smaller the M322 was than the M515.
Picked up a mooring at Cooper; Kelly nailed it on her first try ever…Thanks to TTOL for the Winchard Snap Hook and bridal idea; when we have the regular crew the guys just “hoss” the line up. The wind is now howling and we are still beat from travel and getting the boat underway so we elected to eat onboard and planned an early attempt to make Leverick on Sunday with the wind on the nose.
Sunday 11/23:
Slipped the mooring at 07:30 wind still very stiff out of the NE; double reef in the main. After about three hours of getting beat up (the forecast said gusts to 30) I didn’t want to ruin Kelly on sailing so I opted for VG Yacht Harbor vs. Leverick to explore VG.
We are now stern too at VGYH…the little 322 Princess among all the big pretty yachts; one good thing at $1.45 a foot it was not that much more than a ball. I was still a little concerned (as it turned out unwarranted) about running my CPAP on the 12 volt house battery. The harbor master seemed a little surprised that I wanted to be stern too and even more surprised when we pulled it off, no problem…Kelly is catching on fast!
Off to rent a car, lunch and visit the Baths…I have been several times but its great fun taking someone for the first time; the boulders continue to amaze. We are back at the boat to shower (VGYH showers were a big let down after the new Moorings facility) and happy hour…along comes a guy passing out flyers for the Rock Café, what a great place! The drinks and food were great and the ambience was amazing; you are seated among the boulders and it was a beautiful night. We ordered the Tuna Capriccio, Caprese Salad, Red Snapper and Spaghetti with Lobster; all were very good to excellent except the spaghetti sauce overpowered the lobster. (We would defiantly go back).
Monday 11/24:
Now we are off for our tour of VG…what a beautiful island; we pretty much did the whole island then off to my objective of the day. I had total knee replacement on my right knee in’05 and did my left last December…I wanted to hike up Gorda Peak! You should know before last December I didn’t walk across the street if I didn’t have too. I made it up one week before my 63rd birthday and have the pictures to prove it!
Tuesday 11/25:
Great sailing; broad reach to the Beef Island Passage then down wind to White Bay JVD. This was my first stop at White Bay; we loved it!
I was very disappointed to see all the boats and the high winds caused some surge; one or two moorings were open on the East end but it looked like the hook was best bet. I motored close to Doug on Mustang Sally (I didn’t introduce myself) and was very pleased to find out most of the boats were day charters and would be out by 3 or 4pm; great news and we were on the hook soon after. (Thanks Doug)
No problem setting the hook but the sand was so stirred up we couldn’t even find the anchor in 11’…so I backed her down hard took my day shore bearings and we swam ashore with our soggy dollars.
What a fantastic beach!
Back on the boat and rigged the hammock on the fore deck…Kelly claimed she liked to read in the hammock I think she liked to sleep.
That night we ate on board enjoying JB’s Manana and the lights of St Thomas 20 miles west. I checked my night bearings; then checked again at mid night…no problem with the anchor.
Wednesday 11/26:
We planned to be off to CCB today and Great Harbor on Thursday for Thanksgiving dinner at Foxy’s; but wait a minuet we would have to take down the hammock and we really haven’s done a pub crawl on the beach and we checked anchor and we have a solid hook. Ok, we are blowing off CCB and staying.
We enjoyed a lay day (hey, even the Americas Cup takes a lay day) and had a wonderful time. Hit the beach about 13:00 there were so many day trippers we could not get close to Soggy Dollar but we discovered that Jewel’s has an excellent cheese burger.
Now the trouble started (sic) Kelly ordered a rum punch; she was startled when they put all the fixings in the bar for her to make her own! Then the pub crawl started; on to One Love and by 3:30 the crowed had cleared out and we enjoyed the original Pain Killer; well it seems that Kelly had never had more than 3 rum drinks and this day she had 5! My tolerance being somewhat higher I didn’t monitor the new crew member as closely as I should have.
02:00, Kelly didn’t know she could be this sick! While I stood watch with the flashlight she finally just jumped in and hung on the dingy until she was finished.
I got her to bed about 03:00 and hit the rack.
Thursday 11/27:
This morning we have had an epiphany…rum can be a very bad bad thing. I of course felt fine which I wisely kept secret.
After water, coffee and installing Kelly back into the hammock I took a little dingy ride; I wanted to commit this great anchorage to memory.
It was apparent that Kelly was not up for moving the boat (which meant taking down the hammock) so the good people at Sand Castle arranged for a taxi to take us to Foxy’s for Thanksgiving. We shared with a couple from North Carolina who came every year and divided their time between Sand Castle and Cow Wreck on Anegada…when David found out I was from Houston he explained that Walker and Nancy were great people and one of the main reasons they return to Cow Wreck. Yes, I know Walker but he doesn’t know me…BTW Walker I raced many times with Bill on Rowdy.
Foxy did an ok job with dinner and the music was great; we got in a few dances but I was dealing with a crew member with rum poisoning so we made it an early night.
Friday 11/28:
Underway for Soper’s for water (the 332 only holds 40 gallons) then on to the Bight.
Great sailing; on the ball and off to the caves for snorkeling.
For our last night on the boat we enjoyed the ribs and music at Pirates Bight…we passed on the Willie T because I don’t think Kelly wanted to be anywhere near Rum.
Saturday 11/29:
Off the mooring early to return the boat; all went well and we once again enjoyed Moorings new shower room while we waited for our room at the Mariner Inn. After lunch we were given a great remodeled first floor room over looking the marina…unfortunately the air conditioner sounded like gremlins were inside banging with ball peen hammers; now we are upstairs with an equally nice view but not a remodeled room…we were too tired to worry because all we wanted was a nap before a sunset dinner at Bananakeet.
Bananakeet was excellent; the view, the food and they served the very best Pims Cocktail I’ve had; since Mr. Maloney was driving I enjoyed three before wine. We had the tuna sushi, bruschetta, jerk chicken and we shared an excellent grilled lobster. (Thank you very much ManPot)
Sunday 11/30:
Up at 02:00 to begin enjoying my 63rd birthday with my new friend the aforementioned intestinal bug…I will spare you the details.
We had a wonderful time and assuming this economy doesn’t complete tank we will be back.
Thanks to TTOL for all the good info.
Notes:
I have never had better weather…cool nights, little rain and after Monday the sailing was near perfect.
My dual voltage CPAP worked fine on the house battery
The Winchard Snap Hook is highly recommended.
Took two fold up battery powered fans from Defender Ind. that worked great but the weather was so nice we only used them two nights until about 2-3 am.
We didn’t have any issues with taxi drivers in the BVI or the USVI.
I recommend Mr. Maloney for a taxi 284-499-4120, 544-5105.
If you plan to go to wind in the SFD Channel the 332 is a little light when it’s blowing.
Had a little sticker shock being charged $6 for a Pain Killer at the Soggy Dollar…guess I’m getting old. In Texas you pay $5.50 for a beer and get to see…well I’ll let that go.
The showers at VGYH suck!
Wow! This has gotten way too long.
Mike
