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Sunday morning we ate our usual baguette with cheeses and coffee. We tried to wake my son but that was not happening so Bill, Shawna and I headed over to the Sunset Bar & Grill to see the "big boy" KLM from Amsterdam land. With no cruise ship in port parking was a breeze and we had wonderful seats under a big umbrella. We found out from another couple the flight was running about 20 minutes late. We watched several other planes land, including an instance where one plane came from behind, then over the other plane, to land in front. That would have totally freaked out an American air traffic controller I would think. We just recently in Charleston had a horrible accident where a jet fighter collided with an ascending small private plane which ended tragically. Finally we saw the KLM. We tried waiting for a takeoff of a larger plane but they just seemed to be sitting there, so we left and on a lark I drove to Sandy Ground, to the Simply, in search of croissants and anything else that looked good.

What a wonderful market! The cheese case was full of interesting cheeses and so was the meat case. There were wonderful looking terrines, pates, etc. We bought a tray of odds and ends of cheeses and one of Charcuterie. I even found a four pack of Pot de Creme in the dairy section. We took our spoils home to have for dinner later and then picked up Jon and Meg to go eat Shawarma at Little Jerusalem. One bonus of finding places open in the low season is that usually you are the only customers so you get really individualized attention. The owner said he would fix us up some good food if we trusted him, which we did. And was it ever good! A mixed plate of chicken and lamb, with lovely saffron rice and boiled potatoes drenched in butter and an herbed side salad. He put hummus on my son's plate and then made me a fruit drink. Food and drinks for the five of us only came to $46 and it was utterly delightful.

We then decided to head to Dawn Bay for snorkeling. I am the designated driver but I had 4 copilots directing me. Well, they sent me down an access road to the Westin that was unpaved straight up and down, full of pot holes and downright scary! I inched the car carefully through the back country past a sanitation pond and then onto the Westin property. We set up camp and entered the water to the right. They had dragged all the Sargassum up onto the beach on the left. Entering the water was quite painful as it was a pile of small rocks and pebbles. Swimming just a short distance out we came to the rocky inshore reef, which had some large perfectly round brain coral, among other types of coral, a number of sea urchins, and a large variety of small and large fish. It was the best snorkeling so far and I was glad the kids got to experience it. It is definitely worth the drive. Coming out of the property the security guard directed me to the paved entrance/exit, which was much easier than the way we came.

Returning to the Atrium we convinced my mother to finally come down to the pool area where we sat and waited for the lighting of the Fireball at the Buccaneer. Dinner was a veritable feast of all the cheeses, charcuterie and wines we had collected.
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Monday was our 30th wedding anniversary. Bill got up early and trekked to Zee Best to get us regular croissants, almond croissants, chocolate croissants and quiche for breakfast. He then volunteered to stay behind (with Heineken and the pool/beach) while I drove everybody else to Philipsburg. We took the wheelchair and because the police have cordoned off Front Street it was easy to wheel my mother around. They should really think about making that permanent. With no cruise ship in port it was again very easy to shop. We parked again at Bobby's Marina then went up the Boardwalk and down Front Street back to the car. The girls had fun using their coupons to get the free gifts from the Effy shops and a few others. We drank a few Heinekins and revisited the linen shop and Bijoux Terner/Liquor shop I had scouted out before. That linen shop, katty corner to the Oranje School, sells sets of linen napkins and wineglass coasters. If you haven't seen those coasters they are hard to find and oh so practically elegant. They are round and have slit openings to slip over the base of a wine glass.

We also visited the Amsterdam Cheese and Liquor Store where my son went gaga over a huge wheel of Gouda for $24. I am sure we will finish it before the week is over, lol. We drove back and Shawna and I went snorkeling off Kim Sha beach. Visibility was low but we did see quite a few fish. She got a surprise when a huge silvery fish swam by her. She said it was longer than she is tall and about 2 feet high. A tarpon? I have no idea. We also went to this week's reception at the Atrium where Meg won a gift certificate to a jewelry store. It's a good thing we are going back to shop tomorrow or a gift certificate would not be a good prize. The guys are going deep sea fishing while Shawna, Meg & I tackle Back Street and the alleys.

Any suggestions of a good food truck or other cheap eats in Philipsburg?

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Thanks for your report! Could the fish have been a grouper?

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There are a couple of cafes down Old Street in P'burg with outside seating. French pastries, quiches etc. If you haven't discovered Old Street you'll find shops and a great place making chocolates to die for. With ocean at your back it's right of the main dock, an alley on the left with a crescent sign over the street that read's "Old Street". There's an old yellow car in the street and a good jewelry store at the left corner of Front & Old sts.

Chesterfield's near the cruise ships has great breakfast reasonable. Dinner's are good too but never had lunch there.

Greenhouse near Bobby's Marina corner of Front St has lots of great aptzs to share.

Not cheap but reasonable is the outdoor garden seating at the Passaangrahan hotel. From the boardwalk it's just before the curve toward the cruise ships. From the street it's beyond Old Street. A beautiful old hotel where the Queen of Netherlands stayed. Building was shipped in pieces and constructed---the first "pre-fab." Friends had what they said were great burgers there. We've only eaten dinner there but great atmosphere.

Just meander try some of the little places you might pass then tell US what was great. I doubt you can go wrong.

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For an inexpensive lunch after power shopping, or while waiting for a piece of jewelry to be set, we have often enjoyed Barefoot Cafe on the Boarwalk, near the center (courthouse area).
Creole food, curries, grilled fish...good island food. Great people watching from the balcony as cruisers go up and down the boardwalk.


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Chesterfield's is closed for vacation but we ate at a very local Caribbean Jerk Shop where all the locals appeared to be going. It was cafeteria style and had things like Bull Foot Soup, Oxtail Soup. I was not adventurous and stuck with Jerk Chicken but my daughter got Goat Curry...

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Enjoying your reports. 12 meter Bar and Restaurant is probably open. Located in Bobby's Marina next to where the cruise ship taxis pick up.


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Chesterfield's is back open from vacation, starting today, if anyone is wanting to head there.


Carol Hill

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