February – March 2007 Trip Report
This was my first real trip since summer of 2004. Some random thoughts
• The views are as stunning as I remember them to be
• I was surprised how easily I slipped back into familiarity with being there, almost as if I still lived there
• I’d forgotten how much I like winter in the BVI
• Brewers Bay is still my favorite spot. I hope the campground does not get sold as rumored.
• Johnny Hill Villa is the best value around. I like the locked gate to access the rooms at the Villa.
• I love the people in the BVI and miss my friends there
• There are a lot of new buildings in RoadTown but no new parking
• Traffic is much worse
• Cruise ships have ruined CGB for me
• The power went out every night around 7 pm
• I wish I could still live there at least half the year
• I only go to STT because my closest friend lives there but it is better than Delaware
• My verizon cell phone worked all over Tortola roaming but would not work on Frenchman’s Bay on STT.
Feb 27 early morning flight from PHL to SJU using FF miles was half full allowing the luxury of a whole row to myself. Had lunch at San Juan airport and boarded flight for STT arriving a bit early. Picked up by best friend and spent three nights with her and her family in Frenchman’s Bay. Mostly just hung out together.
Feb 28 - Accidentally ended up at Iggy’s on Bolongo Bay at weekly Carnival Night. Stayed for the buffet and entertainment, Food was not good, painkiller was awful and entire atmosphere was tourist focused. There were some vendors with good quality locally made handcrafts and I bought some wonderful handmade soaps.
Mar 1 – Went to Mountain Top. Had not been there for years, view is beautiful, other wise just a bunch of tourist shops. Took a drive around the west end of the island, country, quiet, similar to areas of Tortola. That evening ate at a restaurant in Red Hook across the street from Duffy’s called the Lotus Asian Grill; the food was exceptional, service great. I highly recommend the coconut soup and the marinated beef strips (hot!!)
March 2 – Caught the 8 am ferry from Red Hook to West End. Denzil Clyne met me at the boat and I picked up a car and keys to my room at Johnny Hill Villa. He did not have any small cars available so I had a Montero all week. Even though it was 9 am my room was ready. I drove to Cane Garden Bay, went to look up friends on the beach, had breakfast with Julian at Rhymer’s, said hello to Tony and Sandra at Elm. Stopped at Bobby’s for a few groceries and headed up the hill to my suite. My apartment had a full small kitchen, large bedroom with king sized bed, bath, living area and balcony with a killer view of Cane Garden Bay and Jost van Dyke. I will post pictures. I was the only person on my side of the building. I got settled in, called some old friends, went to Brewers Bay. Power went out around 7 and I stupidly forgot to bring a flashlight. Thinking like a tourist these days and not like a resident anymore, LOL. Stopped in Bobby’s before going to Quito’s to buy a flashlight but none available so they loaned me one. Spent the evening on CGB, the Bay was jumping. Banana’s had a band and Quito was playing and the music was great, did lots of dancing. Saw lots of old friends and faces. Even some who had left the island and returned. Left at midnight because I had to get up early the next morning for a boat trip.
March 3 - went on a trip to Anegada arranged by a friend because she had family visiting. A fairly new outfit, Caribbean Undersea Adventures,
http://www.escape-bvi.com/BVI_CUA.aspx runs trips on a custom built power cat out of Nanny Cay. The cost was $65 a person and includes soft drinks and maybe beer, can’t remember since I don’t drink it. We left at 8 am went to the Dogs where they give a 45 min presentation using the ROV exploring the airplane wreck. Then it was on to Anegada. The cat does 28 knots and we were there by 11 am. The ride was horrible due to the rough conditions. It was worse in the channel and a bit better when we hit open water. Loblolly Bay was very windy and the water was rough. I did a little snorkeling but not too much, the current was quite strong. Lunch of conch fritters was good, no lobster were available, had not called ahead. All in all a nice day, but would have been more enjoyable w/o so much wind. Left at 4:30, arrived Nanny Cay at 6:30. Had a burger at the café at Nanny Cay. Power went out again just as I got back to the villa and I could not take a shower. The power was off for over an hour. Finally was able to shower and called it a night early and skipped the Full Moon party. Watched the eclipse from my porch for awhile, but it was often cloud covered.
March 4 – slept in late, took it easy. A fall and the rough boat trip had resulted in severe neck pain from an old injury so I passed on an offered trip to Jost. The wind was still blowing and the water rough. Lots of cruise ship passengers on CGB and lots and lots of chairs from the east end to the west end of the beach. Spent the day on Brewers Bay, it was busy with residents, folks from the campground, and locals at the east end of the beach with a band due to holiday weekend. Lovely day, chatted with Nicole and had one of Gina’s good cheeseburgers Tried to use my ATM card in every bank w/o success. Called my bank on Monday, they insisted it was clear and had no answer why it would not work. I never was able to use my debit card to get cash but no problem using it as a credit card for purchases. Luckily I have local friends and was able to get cash. Had dinner with friends at Coco Plums and visited at their place on CGB for awhile. Voodoo ribs were great but they were out of the skillet mushrooms due to full moon party the night before. Stopped at ELM and had a drink on the way home.
Mar 5. Met an old friend for lunch at Islands. Food and atmosphere lovely as always. We talked for a few hours and were the last to leave. Islands is one of my favorite places. Stopped at ELM to see Elvett and his children. He was there and not at Pirates since the staff were off for the holiday. The bay was loaded with cruise ship passengers. Had dinner at Big Banana with a local friend. I always have the coconut shrimp.
Mar 6 - I foolishly ended up spending the day on CGB next to Stanley’s. Even though I was lying in the hammock back under the palm trees I was still surrounded by chairs and people. It was like being at Wildwood NJ on July 4th. There was no empty spot on the beach at all, not even on the other side of Quito’s and as far down as de wedding bar. As much as I have loved CGB, for me it is ruined and I have no desire to be there. That day some passengers left at 1 but a whole new supply replaced them and were there well after I left since I believe the ship was staying overnight. There were 3 ships in that day. Dinner that night at Palm Delight with a local friend, ginger chicken was terrific. Stopped in to hear Quito play. Had a chance to chat with him at length about politics, development and the environment when he took a break. Saw Mandy, finally, who was also visiting, but I kept missing, and caught up on her news. Chatted with Corinne, Jephette and Fitz and headed up the hill.
Mar 7 - finished packing, went to Brewers Bay one last time, met friend and her visiting family there. Went back to the villa, showered, loaded the car and drove to Denzil’s to return the car and get a ride to the airport. Arrived at the airport at 2:10 pm, too early, check in only took 5 minutes, walked over to Trellis Bay. Checked on the snowstorm (UGH) back home and had a roti at Jeremy’s Cyber Café. Headed back to the airport, boarded the plane which left early. Arrived in San Juan 25 minutes early; every escalator and moving walkway was working!!!! Got through customs and immigration with no problem and easily made my flight. I had been worried because I only had an hour scheduled between landing and departing. Arrived on time in PHL to cold and snow, yuck!
