When I planned this year's trip last year, I decided and talked Steve into adding another island to our holiday. Bequia is a small island in the Grenadines, just south of St Lucia. I had considered St Lucia for our first anniversary in 1989. But the BVI won out and we have been there ever since. Bequia is what Tortola was like about 25 years ago so we were looking forward to a more rustic, pure experience. I found a sweet little house on top of a windward facing (trade winds!) ridge, away from most of civilization. It had it's own fresh water pool and wasn't going to cost any more than the BVI houses we stay in. But after 3 months and several emails the owners never responded to my reservation request so I had to punt in September and rearrange our flight plans to just do the BVI. The Cooper houses were both booked for the first four days of the first week so I found an undiscovered inn called Sun Set View Suites on the North Shore, high on the hill.
I had seen one photograph of the place and based on that, and several great clients reviews, I booked it. Usually they reserve only weeks but Elvin Stoutt prorated the 4 days for me and it ended up costing us very little. We will definitely return should we have several days available on Tortola. He was a very attentive but quiet host. In the morning when I would have a cup of coffee on the patio he might wander through on route to his house and say "good morning." We would have a brief visit. He is a very gentle, soft spoken man.
Steve and I arrived at Beef Island, BVI and were eventually met by a driver who took us all the way down island (about 45 minutes) to the inn and we plopped our stuff down. D&D Car Rental delivered our car and we were all set. We made a quick trip to Soper's Hole for wine and munchies and something for dinner that night. Our room had a TV so we vegged, noshed, and watched TV.
The little suite felt like a cottage and had a full kitchen, a nice bath, a little sitting area in the bedroom and AC (!) if we needed it but we didn't since we were so high on the hill. I even needed the coverlet at night. YUM! I think we could have enjoyed that spot for the entire three weeks and someday we might.
The next day we decided to do a short dive to test my sprained ankle in the fin. Easy to do at Long bay Beef Island because we had promised to meet our friends at the airport mid afternoon. We flew thru town to grab lunch but most places were closed due to the Easter holiday and we ended up at Pusser's. I love their Caesar salad. The dive was good but the current was strong and I lasted about 20 minutes. I was satisfied and after rinsing off with bottled water (what a spurge!) we headed off to greet Don and Jerry at the airport. We packed them into the car and Steve found every little space in our Jeep for their bags (I had a bag under my feet and they had a suit case on the laps). We drove them back into Roadtown and laughed and talked the entire way. Dropped them at Maria's and then went back down to Belmont to get ready for Don's birthday dinner at Bananakeet.
The four of us arrived at the same time and just in time to enjoy the sunset with our first Painkillers and then a luscious dinner. We all laughed and talked and basically made a party of it. I suspect we made a little too much noise but there was no doubt we enjoy being together. Steve didn't have more than one drink. He had to drive us home.
This is where the inn was a challenge. The Sun Set View Suites is way at the top of a very narrow (read:one lane) road. The rule is if you are going up and meet a car YOU back down! We never had to do that but once at the top at the Inn we had to back down a skinny lane to the suite's drive way and then park. In the day it was tough. At night it was nearly impossible. That is why we never ate another dinner out. I actually got quite proficient at directing Steve by my rear view mirror. Except one night. But that comes later
Monday we had plans to meet Searose and Andy on St John for a couple of dives and lunch. The ferry at West End was an hour late so we knew the day would be shortened since we had to catch the last ferry at 3:30 or sleep over on their floor. St John is so different than Tortola. The north side is lush with overgrown green. The roads are more inland and easier to drive. There are few settlements due the fact that 3/4 of the island is a National Park thanks to Lawrence Rockefeller. That man has done more to preserve the Virgin Islands than anyone. Our first snorkel was Trunk Bay. TB is very recognizable from almost every ad for the USVI. It is a classical crescent shaped bay with crystal blue water and very nice rocks to snorkel around. About 30 minutes in I got tired and this was the only time I took off my left fin and slowly swam back to the shore. I was very impressed by the quietly kayaking life guard who patrolled the water. I knew that I was in the right place to be tired.
Steve and I got back to shore and I played in the surf (Blub blub blub bulb.....) until Searose and Andy returned and we cleaned up and headed own to Skinny Legs for burgers and soda. Andy loved his Mahi Mahi sandwich. What a fun place! And what fun people we were with! It was packed and at the end of lunch, we left money on the table so we could make it to another beach in which to wade and then catch the last ferry. Got back to the suite in time for a quick dinner and more TV! As long as we had it, we would watch it!
Tuesday we had missions. We were leaving for Cooper on Wednesday morning so Steve and I wanted to get some shopping done to make that next morning less stressful. We were on vacation! Who needs stress??
Made a stop by Sunny Caribbee for a pound of Salt Island salt and presents for home. We had lunch at Jean Leonard's Roti Palace and were pleased to have her all to ourselves. We chatted and she showed me her "new" large kitchen. We hadn't been by her since she had moved and she says she gets less traffic now. I suggested she prepare some fliers to put out to advertise. Steve had a Goat Roti (in honor of the Cooper Island goats) and I did the veggie. I asked her if I could buy some roti shells and she sold me 15 for about $25 and gave me a mayo jar full of her half ripe mango chutney for free. We shared our shells with Don and Jerry and gave it as presents when we got home, reserving 4 for ourselves. The chutney is hard to part with (sorry D&J!). We must have spent an hour with her. She has invited me back to learn how to make the shells and someday I will do that! I would love to work with her in her kitchen. I have worked in several professional NYC kitchens and this will someday be a treat.
We went on to Roadtown Wholesale to stock up on soda and munchies and etc. THAT place is a real find! It's like a warehouse from God and we saved a pile o' bucks there. We got a humongous bag of fresh limes for nearly nothing!
Every time we left our neighborhood we drove right by a little covered stand right near Sebastian's. There a woman named Nan who sells her hand hewn and painted wooden bowls. One in particular caught my eye every time we turned there. I finally told Steve to stop and give me some money. I had to buy one. I did and I love seeing it in my ktichen now. I can't wait to fill it with summer tomatoes from the garden.
Headed back to our place to recoup. Called a rib order to C&F and drove back into town in time to pick up at 6:45. We got one order for dinner and another to take to Cooper. Sunset driving the opposite direction was beautiful. We could see all the way up the channel and it was glorious!
Now backing down our little drive at night. This should have been easy - we had done it before and I had had several Painkillers. But tonight with no alcohol we struggled! We made it but I think it but I think it put a momentary dent in our marriage. Home, ribs and one last night of TV! Tomorrow silence and the beach sounds of Cooper.
Wednesday morning we packed up and dropped our duffles at the Cooper Island Beach Club dock at Road Reef Marina. D&D picked up the car as expected and then Steve and I walked across the street to Riteway to shop for everything else. That took about 30 minutes (Steve and I split up the list and he does wine and grocery and I do fresh stuff and odds and ends). By 10 we were back at the boat and had loaded everything on board. Along with several CIBC guests we departed for heaven at 11. Funny enough we met two guests with us who we had beaten out for the Beach House reservation. He had been coming as long as we - 11 years. I laughed and told them at least they wouldn't have to do their own dishes! Apparently that didn't make them feel any better
On arrival, Curt met us with Painkillers boat side. Steve guzzled his and headed off down the beach, over the rocks towards the Beach House. I took my time keeping in mind my ankle. Our provisions and bags were delivered and we packed everything into the house and relaxed with leftover roti and soda.
As before, everything remains the same from here on out. The Beach House is right on the shore. The waves eased us into sleep every night and the morning sun and I met each morning. We fed our hermit crabs and even found them in painted shells we had left in 2002.
I think my favorite time of day is between 6am and 9:30am. I loved watching the boats bob and drift. I loved wandering the beach looking for pieces of coral and shells for a new windchime. I made a new one for a gift, DUG
I loved making iced coffee and feeding the crabs below the house the coffee grounds to suck up. The sounds were the fauna on the island and smells were of the freshly rained on flowers.
In the Hill House, Don and Jerry entertained us one night for dinner. They had made some lime rum and served us drinks made with it. And then they left it for us when we moved upstairs after they left. A divine duck confit and potato gratin and fresh salad. Candle light and wonderful stories. Several afternoon snorkels with them and serving them apps in the surf one night prior to me getting sick. We treasure our friendship with them.
It was hot on most days of the first week and then I got sick. Went back to town to market and pharmacist at Quomar Trading was wonderful and saved our vacation. I was out of commission for three days but when I got better we moved up to the Hill House and enjoyed the nearly endless air and a day of ceaseless rain. Birds nested around us and the flowers seemed to explode in color. Our views from on top were endless. Our sunsets continued to be better day after day. Steve painted and I read. We dove Quart o' Nancy and saw hundreds of huge starfish and I found and freedove 15 feet (my ankle was much better!) for a large seabiscuit and then a few days later found another even large biscuit down right below the house.
We made friends with Don's Queen Angel, counted 7 large barracudas at one point at Cistern and discovered an unusual Helmet Grunard and two small Palometas. The locally rare Grunard was found by simply floating in the shore water. We spent some time with the dive shop identifying it. They had never known the Helmet Grunards were around. I teased Steve that we had made the discovery of a new species
We actually had to wait until we were home to Google it and then found out its identity.
Steve and I enjoyed seeing the Beach Club folks again. Curt handled all our wishes easily and made sure my favorite Manchioneel sandwich was a special the first day we had lunch at the club. Chris and Morgana were welcoming (she looks terrific in her new short haircut) and one lunch we spent a long time chatting with Chris. He was looking forward to their vacation in New York so I was advising him on theatre but couldn't help with all the new restaurants since we don't eat out much. Leeze and Vernon gave us an invitation to their July wedding In St Lucia and I am so sorry we can't go down for it. Her dress sounds dreamy and I know Vernon will look quite cool in his black tux. He and Vasilie and Rama were great help in bringing our belongings and provisions ashore. The cottages were always spic and span. The gang there continues to be the best.
We came home early so Steve could make his Sunday flight to Germany. It was sad to leave the island three days early but we had lots to do here at home.
What have I forgotten? Much I suppose but so much has become familiar to us.
I have a bunch of photos available on Kodak Gallery so if anyone wants to see them, please send me you email and I will forward them. It was hard to reduce 300 pictures to under a hundred. Let me know.
