My sister and I decided to take a “sentimental journey” to Bermuda this year. It is 40 years this year since we first went to Bermuda together. In 1966, I was 16 and she was 20. From that time, until 1978, we returned 20 times, going twice a year from 1970 through 1978. We had great times there.
I went back in 1996 with my mother. My sister and I had always said we would go back again together so this was the trip.
We left Toronto on Friday, April 7th. The flight with Air Canada was smooth and we arrived just after noon local time. We waited quite a while in the immigration line – lots of flights come in at that time. Bermuda has the only airport I have ever seen with a fully carpeted arrivals’ hall.
Grabbed a taxi to take us into Hamilton, where we were staying at Rosedon Hotel. I had never stayed there before – my sister and mother had been there and recommended it. We had booked a standard room but got an upgrade to deluxe.
The room was very clean, nicely decorated with the most comfortable beds I have ever slept on – brand new pillow-top mattresses. We had a room with a small balcony looking out over the pool and gardens. I have to add that the gardens at Rosedon are fantastic, beautifully planted and maintained.
Accommodation included breakfast every day and afternoon tea. Rosedon also provides lunch and light dinners, on request.
We unpacked quickly and walked down to Front Street looking for lunch. We had fish and chips at the Hog Penny Pub, just off Front Street. The food was just as good as I remember it to be. Had a “Dark and Stormy” (black rum and ginger beer) to go along with the food. After that did some shopping and browsing.
That evening, we took a taxi to Elbow Beach for dinner at the Seahorse Grill. The food was excellent, the service attentive. We both had the beef tenderloin; I had the grilled pumpkin for an appetizer and the banana puree and guava jelly and sorbet for dessert. A bit pricey - $16.00 for a glass of the house white and a small glass at that – but still worth it.
On our way into dinner, we stopped for drinks at the Veranda Bar and met a fellow who had worked at Elbow when we first went there in 1966. Known as “Champagne Danny” in 1966, he remembered us when we walked in this time. (He had also remembered my mother and I when we went in 1996.) That’s one of the things I like about Bermuda.
Saturday, we had breakfast on the front porch of Rosedon. You can call room service and order breakfast to be eaten in your room, on the porch or by the pool. It arrives in about 5 minutes, “Breakfast of the day”. You don’t get a choice but it was good every day we were there. French toast one day, fried eggs and bacon the next, scrambled eggs and bacon the third morning, along with tea, juice, toast, jam, etc. and the local newspaper.
After breakfast, we went to the bus terminal and bought a day pass for the bus/ferry system. We took the South Shore Road bus, heading for the Dockyards. We got off at Elbow Beach and Horseshoe Bay, to check out the beaches. We then rode out to the Dockyards, did some more shopping and had lunch in the Pirates Pub – cheeseburgers and more “Dark and Stormys”.
We took the new fast ferry back into Hamilton for more shopping. I bought a pair of emerald-cut quartz earrings in a color called “Bermuda Ocean Mist” – a blue-green shade that Aubrey’s Jewelers is selling. Bought them with a “gift” that my husband had slipped into my suitcase without me seeing. Found the gift when I unpacked. Had a little cry.
Got back to Rosedon in time for afternoon tea – just the tea was fine for us but they do serve sandwiches and cake, too.
That evening, we had drinks with a friend at the Hamilton Princess – Manhattan’s this time, not rum and ginger beer. The friend had just arrived and was tired, so she went back to her room and my sister and I went to the Lobster Pot for Dinner. We both had the Shrimp Cocktail – excellent – and I had the grilled tuna. My sister had the Bermuda Triangle – three kinds of seafood. Dessert was Bread Pudding. All excellent, accompanied by a nice Chablis for me and Stella Artois for my sister. Afterwards, we walked back to Rosedon.
Next morning, after breakfast on the porch, we walked to the harbor front, behind the Bank of Bermuda, and watched the sailboats in the harbor and just sat and reminisced for a while.
For lunch, we met up with the friend again and took a taxi to Henry VIII’s for the Sunday Brunch. Not as extensive as I recall but then I can’t eat as much as I used to. The steak and mushroom pie was great as was the roast beef. More bread pudding for dessert, along with Key Lime Pie. (Did I say I couldn’t eat as much as I used to?)
After that, we showed the friend where to find Mile’s Market. She went in to shop and we went for a walk along the harbor front. We had afternoon tea again and then sat by the pool to chat and read. Grabbed a drink from the “honor bar” and spent some time laughing about fond memories of silly things we had done in Bermuda in the past.
Managed to put my foot in it with a taxi driver who was resting while watching TV in the hotel’s sitting room. I thought he was watching the Masters Golf Tournament and when I walked in, I asked, “Who’s winning?” He replied, “It’s hard to tell.” Then I saw he was watching a church service. Oops!
For dinner we had planned on the Lido at Elbow but went to Little Venice instead. I think the Lido would have been better. Service at Little Venice ranged from indifferent to rude to smartass. I had the beef tenderloin – it was excellent - and my sister had the rack of lamb. Seafood cocktail and Caesar salad respectively for starters and tiramisu and thyme crème brulee for dessert. I had the crème brulee – it was great.
We walked back to our hotel again. Never felt uncomfortable out walking at night.
Once back, we packed to come home next day.
Monday was pouring rain – we agreed that our original plan to stay just for the weekend was a good one – we had great weather for Friday, Saturday and Sunday – warm sunny and about 73 degrees each day.
After breakfast we got a taxi to the airport – same driver as was watching TV the day before. Our plane was delayed when a passenger had checked in but did not show up at flight time. We had to wait while her bags were offloaded and then we were off, leaving Bermuda behind under the clouds.
A few things that still impress me:
The roads are so clean, hardly any litter to be seen.
The buses are clean and on time and the drivers still have their names on a “shingle” at the front o the bus
People are still friendly, always greeting you as they pass.
Kids riding the bus, without their parents, still say “thank you’ to the driver when they get off the bus.
Sad things:
The big stores are gone from Front Street – no more Trimingham’s or Smith’s.
Lots more office buildings to house the increasing number of financial firms that operate there. Several block the view of the harbor.
But all in all, it was a great trip; Bermuda is still beautiful and still “another world”. (Thank you, Hubert Smith.)
