RANDOM MEMORIES OF OUR 2ND SXM TRIP
We were up at 4:00 am for our 7:30 US Air flight from Albany to SXM. Karolee’s daughter arrived at 4:10 am to drive us to the airport. She couldn’t sleep either. When you know that you have to get up at an ungodly hour, its tough to sleep restfully. We left the house around 5:15 or so. Strangely, it wasn’t as crowded at Albany (NY) as we thought and we were through ticketing and security within 30 minutes. What to do at an airport that you’ve been through at a hundred times. Connections in Philadelphia were smooth. We haven’t been to the new international terminal since it opened a while ago. Nice. Our flight to SXM left on time and we were able to be assigned exit row seats. If you can’t go First or Business Class, then exit row seats are great.
Exiting the plane in SXM we were greeted by a blast of hot Caribbean air. I love that sensation. Immigration was mercifully short in SXM (about 15 minutes). Then we were off to collect our bags and find the Unity car agent. He drove us to Michael’s fancy car rental office site (palm trees, sand, and a shack for an office) where he gave us our requested car. Why is it that I can get equal or better service from a plywood shack like Michael’s Unity Car Rental than I can from some fancy and expensive looking car rental office here in the states whose agents appear terminally bored with their job and life. Strong recommendations for Unity car rental.
Off we went in our car, re-learning to drive like an SXM’er. Can’t believe how they would pass us on a crowded two-lane road with inches to spare before approaching the car coming from the other direction. I also was nervous about the 6-inch drainage ditches that are where shoulders normally are in this country. I also remembered that if you were a polite driver in SXM, you were dead meat. Thank goodness I have New York City driving experience. Aggressiveness bordering on rudeness is the rule of the road.
Since there was a carnival in Phillipsburg the day we arrived, most of the large grocery stores were closed. We found a smaller 7-11 type store that had the essentials that we needed for the next two days or so.
Finally we got to the turn off for Club Orient and Orient beach. The road was not as bad as I remembered it from 2001. I only slowed down slightly to avoid the potholes. We stopped at the Club Orient office, checked in, got our towels and gate pass, and headed toward our garden chalet (#38). I hadn’t yet brought our two bags into the chalet before Karolee had doffed her clothes and began the de-compression process that we both needed. Staying at Club O means that we can travel light. We both had a carry-on suitcase and a backpack. Most of our luggage contents were things like cameras, books, suntan lotions, and sandals/beach shoes. It’s one of the few places where an airline can lose or mis-route my luggage and I won’t care too much – as long as I get it back and a nice apology voucher good toward the cost of a future flight.
Quickly I joined Karolee’s au natural state and we took our credit card to establish our credentials at Papagayos and reserve places for four couples on the Tiko-Tiko for the following Friday when all of our friends were here.
We both remembered or first trip to Club Orient when we were ready for bed around 7:00 pm. This trip was no exception. We needed this vacation and had no qualms about turning is at that hour. Besides, the sun was down, we were tired, and it was our vacation. We could do what we wanted. Even with the activities with our friends, we were always in bed by around 8 pm. On the last night we actually stayed out until 10:00 pm. Scandalous.
Massage – Karolee and I both had a massage – hers from Nathalie and mine from Caroline. Both ladies did a superb job. I’m not much into deep tissue massages so I asked Caroline to be gentle with me. She could have spent the entire hour on my feet, head and shoulders. Maybe next time I’ll ask for that.
Beach walks -
On our second morning, our friends came to our chalet to get us for the morning walk. When I heard them rap on the window, I jumped out of bed and reached for my bathrobe. Then I remembered where I was and who was at our door and thought to myself “never mind”. Each morning, we would all assemble at one of the beach chalets and begin our walk down to the end of the beach at Mont Vernon. There we had to touch a rock signifying the end of half of our walk. One morning it began to rain and the wind made the rain fall sideways. We took temporary shelter in the changing area of Mont Vernon until the storm passed. Then we turned around and walked back to the Watersports store next to Papagayos. Again we all had to touch a rock, make a traditional noise, and return back to our chalets for personal ablutions. The beach was in generally good condition the entire length of Orient Beach. On the first three days, we had to carefully thread our way through some rocks that separate Pedro’s from Club O. Then the surf built up the sand and we could walk unimpeded from Club O to Pedro’s. It’s amazing how quickly the beach redefines itself. There was absolutely no problem walking nude the entire length of the beach – however, we were always back on Club O property by 9:30 am.
One of our friends is a habitual early riser. He would go down to the beach near the Perch Bar and secure six sets of beach chairs for us. The site was fun because we could see all of the ship people coming to either gawk at or experience Orient Beach. Instead of “black socks”, we called them “cranes” because they would be craning their necks to see what was going on and not appear too obvious. Some had cameras, but security was very strict and visible. Several times, older couples would appear, then stop and discuss the situation. The husband would continue his walk up the beach and the wife would turn around and stay on the other side of Pedro’s. We can just imagine what those conversations sounded like. “Look, honey, let’s try it. I guarantee that you’ll like it.” There were no problems and most of them were great and friendly people who were trying to convince their spouses to experience the Club O environment.
Since we had to make a supply run, Karolee and I drove into Marigot. We walked around the village and enjoyed ourselves. We had lunch at “La Vie en Rose” again and enjoyed the ambience. After lunch, we walked over the fancy mall that caters to Rodeo Drive clientele. Not for me. Then we did some grocery and supply shopping at the large grocery store where we had parked our car. After about ten minutes, I began to experience an anxiety attack and strongly urged Karolee to finish her shopping and get us out of here. Here we were in a grocery store when we should have been basking on the beach naked at Club Orient. I think we made it back in record time. I apologized to Karolee for my panic attack and subsequent attitude. She forgave me, again while getting out of her clothes before I did. She is a saint.
One day while enjoying our beach site beach near the Perch Bar, I swam out to the raft where several others were sitting. Soon, others joined us. One of our friends then brought out a dozen beers which, in turn, brought out more people. In all, we had 22 people on that raft having a ball. With our combined weight, we managed to sink the raft “nipple deep” for those who were sitting around the edge. Three days later, we issued a challenge up and down the beach to beat that number. And we did. We gathered 25 people. Next year, we’re going to shoot for 30 people.
One of the problems of dining beyond Orient beach is that you (1) have to put clothes on, (2) have to drive somewhere, and (3) want to eat out as some fine restaurant. Since our vacation was not predicated upon dining experiences, we restricted ourselves to Andy & Cheryl’s Baywatch, Pedro’s, the Bikini Bar & Restaurant & Papagayos (once). Our one exception was “La Vie En Rose” during our trip to Marigot. Since our group of friends had risen to five couples, we usually had happy hour at one of their beach chalets. Hors d’oeuvres & drinks were plentiful and usually sufficed for our dinner on several evenings. We were more interested in enjoying our friends and the usual happy hour activities & conversations. Andy & Cheryl were wonderful people and we had lunch there three times. Twice we walked down to the Bikini Bar & Restaurant for a group dinner and were glad that we didn’t have to drive home afterwards. The food was good everywhere. For me, the difference between bad food and good food is significant. However, the difference between good food and great food is lost on me. In these cases, I’m more interested in the ambience of the restaurant and the company that I’m with. I don’t recall what I had at the Vie En Rose, but I do recall enjoying the company of my fiancée in a small Parisian-style outdoor restaurant.
Tiko-Tiko
On Friday, five couples and a single male booked passage on the Tiko-Tiko. Everyone had been on the catamaran before so we knew what to expect. Philippe and Philippe were our crew for the day, and one of the Philippe’s had his 6-year-old daughter Luna on the trip. She was such a cutie pie and we all adopted her as our surrogate granddaughter for the trip. She, of course, hated all the attention. We were saddened by the accident that befell Emmanuelle last year and wished her well wherever she is. She was definitely missed and our thoughts and prayers go out to her. Upon arrival at Tintemarre, we all swam into the beach and attempted to mingle with the cruise boat people – with limited success. We all decided to hike to the top of the volcanic rock, which was a treacherous trek on very sharp edges. We also went snorkeling for a while and saw a nice variety of fish. Nothing like the Baths in Virgin Gorda or around Maui, but fun nonetheless. Lunch was soon announced and we all swam to the boat and clambered aboard. Philippe and Philippe were gracious hosts and all decked out in their tuxedo ties. Quite elegant, really. Afterwards, we swam back onto the beach for more sunbathing, liquid refreshments and the traditional mud bath. Photos in all sorts of pose were taken, many of which could not be displayed to a more genteel audience back home. Karolee and I walked to the other side of the island. I can’t believe how isolated some of these islands are in the Caribbean. I can see why they are popular anchoring spots for sailors. Tintemarre was quite crowded with about a 12-15 other private and charter boats anchored nearby. Once again a worthwhile trip that was very much fun.
Also, that Friday happened to be Karolee’s 49th birthday. It was definitely a birthday to remember – especially since she spent it in her birthday suit with 10 other suitably unattired celebrants. Naturally, she was challenged to enjoy 49 drinks during the day. That was a long way out of her league, but she gave it her all. She gave it the old college try – coffee, beer, wine, rum coladas, but she could only get up to 23 drinks that day. Oh well, there’s always next year for the 50th birthday celebration
On several nights there was dancing at Papagayos. Karolee and I are into ballroom dancing back home and we enjoy dancing whenever and wherever we can. It’s not often that we get a chance to do a cha-cha, rumba, waltz or foxtrot in the nude in upstate New York. We definitely gained additional appreciation of the “hang’ song dances where we couldn’t dance any step, but just hung on to each other. One night there was a French couple who became uncomfortably amorous (to others) on the dance floor. As I was twirling Karolee around, we both became convinced that one was going to attack the other right there on the dance floor. When the music ended and they were still clinging on tightly to each other ready to express their affection for each other regardless of the surroundings, someone from Papagayos politely but firmly asked them to consummate their relationship elsewhere. Whew!
Closing thoughts
The weekend following our return from SXM we went to Karolee’s daughter’s college graduation in NH. We all stayed at a nice Best Western motel in Keene with a nice swimming pool. God, how we both hate wearing bathing suits
For those of you who like to buy souvenirs and trinket for the folks back home, there is a neat group of trinket stalls just at the top of the hill outside of the entrance to Club Orient. Once you get on the main road to Marigot and Grand Case it’s only about a quarter of a mile up the hill and on the left. You can get a lot of stuff for very inexpensive prices, e.g. ankle bracelets for $5, or 3 for $10, tee-shirts, pareos, and beach bags for $5. You can also do the entire place in 30 minutes and be back on Club O property, naked in 5 minutes. My type of shopping mall.
Departure at SXM. Watch your cash situation. Credit card purchases are limited to the duty free store and some of the expensive jewelry stores. All the rest require cash or traveler’s checks: e.g. departure fees, meals in the upstairs restaurant, smaller food, drink, tourist & bookstands, etc. We walked onto the plane with $21 in cash between the two of us.
My packing list for next time (beyond what I wear on the plane):
1 pair of shorts
1 shirt
2 x suntan lotion
Aloe Vera gel
Decent clip-on sunglasses to supplement my prescriptions shades
More American cash
It’s tempting to come down to Club O with just the clothes on your back, plus a shaving kit for me and make-up kit for her. But, we always wind up buying a lot of trinkets and souvenir-type stuff for friends and family back home. So, leave enough space in your luggage for all of the goodies that you can’t pass up buying for everyone back home.
Will we be back? Absolutely. Probably every other year, though. Our vacation time and finances are limited and there are many other places that we’d like to see before we settle down to a longer stay. Plus, the rates on Club Orient are increasing significantly. Although you still get an awful lot for what you’re paying, it will be a factor in where we spend our time. One thing is for sure, whenever we go to St. Martin, neither one of us can justify staying anywhere else other than Club Orient. We’ll be watching the TTOL forum with interest and following what is going on between the owners and the management of Club Orient.
Additionally, our experiences were greatly enhanced by the friendships that we formed there. As much as Karolee and I love each other and enjoy each other’s company, it is something special to share our experiences with those people we met at Club O. They are an important part of our lives and we cherish their friendship. Thanks guys and gals. We’ll see you all soon.