[color:"blue"] [/color] Passage from BVI towards Guadeloupe Part1
Some of you may remember that a couple of months ago I posted details in the 'classifieds' section of a passage I intended to try, starting from the BVI, towards Guadeloupe. Well, it did happen (although not entirely as planned), starting on 3/7/2004 and concluding 3/17/2004. Here is my version of what transpired... [color:"blue"] [/color]
Sunday 3/7
The handpicked crew of Kit and Nolan (TTOL name Polaris), Laura and Rex (lauraandrex) and Jim (old friend, business colleague and veteran of Jeannius' Atlantic crossing) all arrived at TMM within 5 minutes of each other. This was quite incredible given that we used 3 different airlines and Jim and I also used the Fast Ferry from St Thomas. Jeannius was all ready for us and in better condition than when I'd last seen her, in September 03, just before the annual lay-up and re-fit. First night was spent getting to know each other at the Pub and then retiring early to the air-conditioned comfort of Jeannius.
Monday 3/8
Up at dawn to begin the serious business of turning Jeannius from a coastal cruiser back into the ocean going vessel she was designed to be. This process consisted of re-fitting the bowsprit (already done by TMM), gennaker and associated furling gear and the jack-stays. Also finding the storm-jib, epirb, sextant, astronomical tables, auto-inflating lifejackets and combined safety harnesses amongst all the other 'junk' I have stored. Everything going well until the electronics check-out… No Depth sounder!!! It turns out that this was reported by the previous charterer at the end of the charter - the transducer had been changed without solving the problem - and it was now a 'holiday weekend' so no other parts could be acquired until Tuesday. This messes up our planned dawn Tuesday departure for Guadeloupe completely. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/impatient.gif" alt="" /> Just goes to show that even on the most meticulously maintained boat (and Jeannius is maintained at vast expense) things still go wrong. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" />
Bobby's deliver on time almost exactly what we ordered with just a couple of 'alternates'. Did we really order that much beer?
Anyway, lunch time, head over to The Bight on Norman Island for a shake-down sail and a previously arranged get together with Don and Charlotte (TTOL Stowe) at Willie T's. Don kindly donates a fishing rod <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/thanks.gif" alt="" /> that apparently doesn't work very well to see if we have any more luck!
Tuesday 3/8
Dawn start, again, back to TMM to see if the depth sounder can be fixed. A new Raymarine ST60 display head is tried and everything springs to life. It would of course be the display head that fails as that is the most expensive component in the system. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif" alt="" /> Oh well, at least we can set off for Guadeloupe - or at least we could do if the wind would co-operate! Anywhere east or preferably north of east would do but, of course, we have an ese. Set off anyway and make good progress towards Grenada rather than Guadeloupe!!! As the sun went down we were passing by St Croix and, as the wind had swung north a bit, now on a heading for Dominica - much better than Grenada but still not Guadeloupe.
Started the watch system, two hours on, four hours off, for the three male crew with me on standby, either at the navigation centre or asleep in the salon. I've found this system works very well for me as the salon is right in the centre of the boat and therefore suffers the least movement so I sleep well and am always available if problems occur. People in the fore cabins found sleep difficult as we were bashing through the waves and they sometimes felt as though they were airborne. We hadn't found this problem coming across the Atlantic but that was 2900nm downwind, 0nm upwind! Stern cabins were fine.
Next morning, after an uneventful night, the wind had come around and we were south west of St Kitts and once again heading for Grenada. Clearly there was no chance of making Guadeloupe before dark and so I decided we should head for St Kitts - 50nm north east - instead. This was still hard on the wind so a bumpy ride with seas of 6-8 ft but at least we knew we would be sleeping in a marina on St Kitts that night.
Arrived at Port Zante marina, Basseterre, St. Kitts late on in the afternoon and helped to tie up by maybe the nicest marina staff I have ever met. No facilities as they had been demolished (and not yet rebuilt) by a hurricane a while back. The tired crew came back to life and we walked into town and ate - and sank one or two drinks - at a lovely restaurant, Ballahoo, overlooking the central square. After a peaceful night we woke to discover a massive cruise ship docked a 100 yards away with about 100 taxis waiting to take people on sightseeing trips. I wandered over to the cruise ship dock to use the facilities and was approached by a Rasta taxi driver offering a trip round the island - a good businessman who spotted an opportunity and took it rather than wait with everyone else for the cruise passengers. I told him to come over to the marina in about an hour as I needed to check with the crew. He duly turned up, a price was agreed and off we went. St Kitts is a beautiful volcanic island that rises to over 3000 ft. We first visited Brimstone Hill, a 300 year old fortification built by the Brits, captured by the French and then reacquired in dubious circumstances by the Brits. Then on to Ottley's Plantation for the best meal of the entire trip. Our taxi driver was magnificent. Very knowledgeable and genuinely friendly. If you ever get to St Kitts ask for Lion Rock taxi. Lion (the only Rasta taxi driver on the island) will give you a great tour.
Can't remember what we did that evening so I presume it involved alcohol and eating aboard.
Alarm clocks were set for 04.00 and another bash to windward, this time towards Antigua, but that is for part 2.