I have had this done for weeks and have been unable to send it out. Finally have a new computer. Enjoy.<br><br>Helen<br><br><br>As usual, the BVI is still a true paradise for us. Steve and I have often considered other Caribbean islands to vacation on (and we have visited many) but we always seem to make it back to these kind islands at least once a year. <br><br>This year though, we tried something a tad bit different. Typically we take all of our time on Cooper Island or simply sail. <br><br>But this year we spent a week in Apple Bay on Tortola and then the following week back at Ginny Evans' Pink Beach House on Cooper. This was perfect. But there was one major glitch. An unexpected health issue.<br><br>TORTOLA<br><br>I spent many long days here at home researching cottages on Tortola that had water access. In the end we chose a cute Purple Pineapple property on Apple Bay. Several people on this board have mentioned it before. It's called Big Apple and it just beyond Sebastian's on the road to Long Bay. An ideal location. Fit for a small family of four or two friendly couples. For us it was great for just the two of us. <br><br>Big Apple has a terrifically sheltered stone patio right above the surf and rocks. Steve and I fell asleep to the surf each night and spent long hours outside under the Sea Grape trees reading and dozing. Each day there were dozens of surfers who coasted along the waves for hours on end. One of our neighbors would pass by our terrace early in the morning and return later in the afternoon. <br><br>The kitchen is very complete but I did little cooking since most of our lunches were big enough for later dinners. The TV was having some cable issues so we didn't have that. Steve was thrilled to hear that since I am a CNN junky. I went into immediate withdrawal. I still am uninformed of the results of several political elections. Still don't know who won the Maryland Governor race. Each time I ran into anyone willing to talk politics I collected for results.<br><br><br>FEEDING THE FISHES<br><br>Food everywhere was wonderful! I cannot believe we have missed out after all these years. So many places to taste and so little time!<br><br>Palm's Delight<br><br>The first night we arrived we got to the house about 6. As we arrived, Cheryl was leaving after dropping off some paper towels. She was visity and very helpful and I felt we could have talked forever. But our stomachs were growling and she directed us to PD. Easy peasy!<br><br>Arriving at Palm's Delight, we were the second table seated. Sat waterside and ordered rum punches. Our first in 18 months. Too long. I still had the din of NYC in my ears and focused my camera on the sunset view over just beyond Jost Van Dyke. Simply magnificent. I had left my 128MB flash card in my computer at home but always keep a smaller - much smaller - 8MB card in my purse. I took lots of pictures. Still love my Nikon 775. (While in Scotland in May/June I took 1500 pictures!)<br><br>Steve ordered the Honey Fried Chicken and I never got a bite. Wouldn't share! I had the Ginger Wine Chicken and it was EVERYTHING it was touted to be. I am not a white meat person because it is ordinarily too dry to enjoy but this was moist and the serving of sauce was generous. BUT it was the peas and rice that completely tantalized my hungry taste buds. I devoured them all and left some chicken to take home along with two pieces of Steve's order. The portions were hefty and made dinner the next night back at Big Apple.<br><br>Now I have to go back on the TTOL message board and find that recipe!<br><br>The conversation of dessert arose. We don't eat dessert. Usually dinner is so filling that anything after that seems like overkill. But there was something about vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce for Steve. His eyes twinkled and I knew he was a dead man. And a really happy man. Once delivered I had a small spoonful (I don't like ice cream much) but nothing remained in the bowl when the bill was paid. We thanked our host and again and again and told him (can't remember his name!) that he and the Ginger Wine Chicken is a favorite of MANY visitors on the message board back here in the states. He laughed. I'm not sure he realized the reputation his restaurant has here.<br><br><br>North Shore Shell Museum<br><br>Many years ago during one of our early sails my best friend "discovered" North Shore Shell Museum and declared it a must do. But we never got there. Year after year time never gave way to us. THIS time it would. I was devoted to having the experience. I am so glad we pursued it but it took two days.<br><br>Sunday at lunch, just prior to marketing in West End, we dropped by. Opps. It was locked up tight. Well, of course it was. I was sure Egbert was at church but Steve and I did spend a long time in the museum maze below the restaurant. <br><br>I am unable to describe to you what we witnessed. This unknown-to-us man had created the most amazing gallery of good will and rich words. Upon hundreds of old wood board throughout the massive crawl space (but tall enough to allow us to wander) were raw painted sayings and words of the road to a true and spiritually fruitful life. Amongst all these wisdoms were mounds and tables of shells. Thousands and thousands and thousands; signs encouraging us visitors to purchase treasures and support his effort. We were not yet aware of Egbert's mission but we saw the evidence.<br><br>The following day we returned for lunch and the door to the eatery was wide open but the room full of tables and chairs was vacant. I called out and shortly heard a lone voice from within. Shortly, a robust, cheerful man appeared. He welcomed us and I walked up to shake his hand remarking that we had stopped by the pervious day. Yes, Egbert had been at church. He invited us to choose our table and presented the menu board. I chose the chicken curry and Steve ordered the fish special. Egbert disappeared to prepare our meal and Steve settled down to observe our surroundings. I had to wander the large L-shaped room.<br><br>Above us were hung dozens of creatively made wind chimes and all were for sale. Shells, driftwood, white coral, beads of many colors. Each was whimsy. Each was truly unique. The bar in the corner displayed magnificent collection of handmade sailboats that I was sure would cruise along any pond. The table in front held shells and on a piece of driftwood hung a bunch of bright bracelets made on heavy wire and wrapped in tiny multicolored electronic wires. I picked one up and took it over to Steve and told him I had seen similar pieces at the Museum of Modern Art's gift shop. They were upwards to $40 or $50 a piece. Here Egbert was merely asking for a contribution for the children. I pulled all the cash I had from my pocket ($15) and selected one and then turned and mulled over which wind chime would hang from one of our summer trees take home.<br><br>Lunch was served. Again, the plated portions were huge. The polenta was thick and rich. My curry was stocked full of chicken parts and veggies. Steve filleted his fish easily and the meat was soft and white. But the real treat was before us. Egbert joined us and we spent a long time visiting. <br><br>Egbert does have a mission. Besides being a host to the many tourists who flock to the Shell Museum and restaurant, he is devoted and active in the lives of the children of Tortola. Everything we saw before us and downstairs was created by and for the children. This fine man continuously takes boatloads of children to beaches on faraway islands to collect shells and then they all return to make windchimes and decorations for sale that support Egbert's effort to teach the kids a skill and sense of self worth. He is concerned that these youths might become ner-do-wells. Convinced of his success he works on and on with them. I am sure that the young ones benefit from his care.<br><br>We also spoke about the dip in tourism and the effect of the world's economy on these small islands. Egbert explained that many people on the islands are now taking out bank loans to get them through the bad times, hoping that these times will be short lived. But he knows better. <br><br>Steve and I left the North Shore Shell Museum richer for the experience. My wind chimes were my carryon for the flight home and will hang next summer in my garden, giving me many smiles when I hear them ring and loving the stories I have to share about this man of God who loves "his" children so much.<br><br>Go see Egbert. Enjoy his food. And let his words reach into your hearts. You will be better for it. And FULL in the tummy!! <br><br><br>Rhymer's<br><br>After our Sunday exploration for lunch, we ended up in Cane Garden Bay at Rhymer's for a belated lunch. Again another place that was visually empty. We were astonished. But was just after "down" season and there were few boats in the bay. Both Steve and I order the fish and chips. It was not quite what he expected but I was crazy for the well done fried fish and fries. I felt the fish was a beef jerky consistency - great for those who like to really chew on their food. I brought the leftovers home for another dinner. Actually they never made it to dinner. I nibbled out one afternoon while reading a trashy novel.<br><br><br>Roti Palace<br><br>Here was another mission. While staying on Cooper we ordinarily come back to the mainland to market once a week. But we are dependent upon the Cooper Island Beach Club's boat for our schedule. Never have the arrangements worked in our favor for a drop by lunch at Jean Leonard's tiny little eatery, Roti Palace. But without photos and local help we would have never found it. This little two tabled restaurant is directly across from the Sunny Caribbee shop, up a steep very small roadway.<br><br>It was more than worth the exploration. Inside this tiny house, Jean creates the true native flavors of the Caribbean. <br><br>Jean came from Trinidad many, many years ago. She and her family now live just over the hill from Cooper Island Beach Club and, daily, this gentle woman arrives at the crack of dawn by boat to prepare her roti shells and multitudes of roti fillings.<br><br>Chicken, conch, goat, fish, vegetarian rotis. We were early this day and she told us that the conch wasn't quite ready to serve. Steve is a chicken boy (as we know) and I typically will choose vegetarian when given the opportunity. We ordered and, as Jean prepared our meal, I hung (literally!) by the kitchen and was amazed at her space and her use of it. As a NYCer used to closet cooking spaces, I wondered at her spinning around activity. All the burners on the stove were covered with wide pans ands pans of chunky saucy fillings. <br><br>Steve's favorite meal at the Beach Club on Cooper is their roti. Given the opportunity he would probably order little else. Here he was to be completely thrilled. While we waited for our meal I poked around and found a tidy backroom where I chose our sodas and returned back to our table in time to see Jean deliver our plates to us. <br><br>She wouldn't sit with us as Egbert had the day before but stood before us as she instructed us to slather the top of our fat roti with spoon fulls of her divine Half Ripe Mango Chutney. We did and I took a little finger taste of it and my taste buds cheered! She then announced to us that she was losing her restaurant space. The lease on her long held building had not been offered for renewal and our jaws dropped with the shocking news. How could this woman move her operation? She was as much of a draw as anything place in the islands. While she seemed surprised this was happening to her, she never appeared worried about her establishment's future.<br><br>During the rest of our stay in the BVI, Steve and I did our own business plan for her. We thought she could contact her neighbor, Sunny Carribee, to market her roti shells and the tangy chutney. Perhaps she could create a small cookbook of her favorite roti recipes. Jean would certainly find an instant market.<br><br><br>Fat Hog Bob's<br><br>We have always been a fan of BBQ ribs on Tortola. Actually, our favorite ribs place is C&F. But I had read many wonderful reviews of Fat Hog Bob's and decided that since we had the time we would give them a shot. Steve and I worked this into a snorkel trip to Long Bay on Beef Island.<br><br>On our way to Long Bay we spun by Fat Hog Bob's and I dashed in and requested two orders of ribs to be picked up on our way back by about 1:30pm. As agreed, they were packed up and ready for us upon our return and we got back to Big Apple and reheated them for dinner. <br><br>Ok, so we are already hooked on C&F. But I must admit we didn't find Fat Hog Bob's particularly good. They were fat, meaty and moist (several pieces less than completely cooked) but the sauce was much more mild than we are used to. I think we will skip it next time and go back to C&F.<br><br><br>Pusser's<br><br>Our final meal out on Tortola was to Pusser's at West End for lunch the day before our departure to Cooper Island. We were there to make a call to Cooper and set up our connection with Cooper boat. But Pusser's location was lovely; we were surrounded by charter boats and their travelers in and out of the market there and refueling and loading on water and goods. <br><br>I was lusting after Pusser's true-to-form Caesar Salad. I had enjoyed the well seasoned and crisp salad previously in Roadtown. Ideal for someone dying for something other than another heavy meal. But Steve ordered a BLT and it sounded way too good to me so I followed his lead. I requested mine on plain untoasted whole wheat bread and was delivered exactly as I expected. The sandwich was perfect. Nothing exotic. Just like home. I recommend.<br><br><br><br>SWIMMING WITH THE FISHES <br><br>So what do you REALLY go to the BVI for? The WATER! Of course. Whether you sail or stay ashore, it's the swimming and diving or snorkeling. <br><br>I had learned to SCUBA dive years ago but found the gear heavy and the constant monitoring of contained air and water depth bothersome. Sometime later I incurred a severe inner ear infection and no longer can even free-dive to even an easy depth. And I was getting so good at it too! So now I snorkel and my advanced SCUBA trained husband has chosen to forgo the deep underwater activity he learned back in 1968 in order to play with me in the shallows.<br><br>We only got to explore three beaches on Tortola and only dive in two of them. One was better than the other but both were interesting.<br><br><br>Brewer's Bay<br><br>A snorkel at this site had been on my list for years. Each time we sailed with Moorings they said we couldn't come into the bay. It was too heavy set with coral heads and currents. So we passed it by........sadly. But this year it was high on our list of spots to hit.<br><br>After lunch at Came Garden Bay we drove off up and down the tremendous Tortola hillsides. Several years ago when we approached Brewer's from the south, the road was rocky and barely negotiable. Now it is a very cleanly paved ribbon that, at the bottom, delivers you to the perfect white sand beach that also includes a tree sheltered campground (in November it was closed down) and a lively restaurant and bar. <br><br>From the hillside above while Steve steered the car downhill, I saw what appeared to be a plausible snorkel in the center of the bay and a rocky southeast edge that was touted to be the best dive spot on the island. <br><br>When Steve and I arrived we were only the second group of people on the beach. Not knowing where to enter and exit the water we asked the young family there for details and they raved about the terrific 15 feet of visibility and the tarpon that had surprised them during their snorkel. Steve and I had never come upon tarpon before so we were excited. <br><br>The tarpon were reportedly in the center part of the bay so we started out there. I'm afraid we were disappointed. 15 feet of clear water wasn't. The water was cloudy and the current, strong. We are used to at least 20 feet of crystal visibility. After about 30 minutes of trying to locate any heads with life we exited halfway down the bay. There were few fish. At least that we could see in the very silty water.<br><br>We found our bodies covered with sand as we stood on the beach. Steve and I discussed whether or not we would find anything down on the south side. We walked down and entered again at the foot of the restaurant.<br><br>Here were large rocky outcroppings with many healthy hard coral heads and numerous brightly colored fish. But water clarity was still limited. Again there was a strong surge and we had to gauge our depth and vicinity to the rocks. A strong rush of water would certainly injure us, shoving our bodies into the sharp edges and no doubt harm the precious coral. <br><br>The wildlife we witnessed at Brewer's Bay was moderately interesting. We had had a much better experience later the next day. And maybe it was the dreaded northern swells of November. We will try again. <br><br><br>Long Bay on Beef Island<br><br>I don't know where I first heard or learned of this intimate bay but when we finally found it and explored its treasures I was convinced it is the best snorkel on Tortola.<br><br>Looking at the small tourist map that everyone gets upon arrival, Long Bay on Beef Island is marked but the directions to it are not particularly clear. I know we have seen that deeply curved bay numerous times while taking off from the airport or sailing by. From land it is much more obscure.<br><br>On route, Steve and I took the first road to the left after coming off the new Queen Elizabeth Bridge (have they renamed that new fancy crossing that?) After traveling down and around that luxurious point of land (it has some of the prettiest and most expensive homes on Tortola) we found ourselves back out at the main road. We turned the car around and then negotiated the secretive right hand turn through heavy brush and low trees. At the end was a dusty parking area that lead to a perfect crescent white sand beach. <br><br>Once, a long time ago, there was a neatly marked snorkel trail on the north side of the beach but markers have since been lost. But we could see the coral heads below the peaceful blue water. Steve and I changed into our suits and gear and headed out into the water.<br><br>The shallows were mostly eel grass and sand but before long we came upon the first rocks with coral. What struck me initially were the sea fans; some brilliant green and others a deep violet purple. So often the fine coral fans have been destroyed by both hurricanes and careless swimmers. But these were pristine and on this lone bay had been spared. Some fans appeared to be the size of our dining room space at home (ok, so our apartment isn't that big but the fans at Long Bay were huge). Gradually our finds became richer and before I knew it I was stunned by the enormous hard coral heads. <br><br>From time to time I would raise my head to check my location and would see an American Airlines ATR taking off not far from our peaceful swim. I was amazed that such a divine beach could be so close to the new and enlarged airport. <br><br>Below, once again, Steve and I discovered fish. We continued our own trail out towards the northern most point. Gradually many fish, some that we had rarely seen in the BVI, appeared and seemed surprised at our arrival. Beneath a large underwater outcropping I found my first Spotted Drum shyly hiding from us. I made note of his distinctive white marking and extended upper fin. Around him seeming to protect him were dozens of Sergeant Majors and young Tangs. This discovery was typical of our dive that day. Treasures were everywhere. <br><br>Here was a site of nature's fine gifts. It's what the BVI has always been known for. YES? <br> <br><br>Smuggler's Cove<br><br>What must be the most perfect and picturesque "postcard" beach location on Tortola is this obscure little beach on the far west side of Tortola. Anyone approaching the site must have a good solid vehicle and have well set teeth. The road is quite rough, reminding us of some of our adventures on Culebra 10 years ago. While 90% of the roads on Tortola are well finished, this one seems to beckon only the folks on a mission. It is well worth the experience.<br><br>Steve and I took the "high" road this day on a scouting trip for a snorkel later in the week. Once through the low and sheltering Sea Grape trees we found a playful family of local folk prancing and laughing in the gentle surf. Children found the easy water perfect for floating and the older kids and adults body surfed in the more active water.<br><br>We would have joined the group had we remembered to bring our suits but we planned to return to snorkel the easy to see reef off to the south center side. I was more than excited to discover swimming friends there.<br><br>Alas, we were unable to return. Our days on Tortola were cut short due to the early departure of the Cooper Island boat. We will some day make it a point to spend time here. To bring a picnic with us and spend a lazy day in the Sea Grape's shadows. <br><br><br>HOME, SWEET BEACH HOUSE<br><br>For the 6th time, in as many years, we returned to the Pink House on Cooper Island to rest, read and reacquaint ourselves with a simpler life. <br><br>When the Cooper Island Beach Club boat dropped us off (to deliver our provisions later along with our bags) we walked the well tended trail along the island's rocky side. Since our last visit the Pencil Cactus had grown wildly. As we saw the pink cottage grow closer in our view, Steve and I felt we were home again.<br><br>Much and nothing had changed there since our last visit in spring of 2001. The house was just as we had left it (new lounge chairs and interior reading lights had been added) but the various young plantings had grown up and flowers were blooming everywhere. Butterflies covered several flowering trees and Pearl Eyed Thrashers and Banana Quits dashed from point to point finding lunch. Our days there were mostly the same. <br><br>Except for one mishap. <br><br>All week long on Tortola I had been bothered by a cyst on the nape of my neck that I had had for several years. It became enlarged and, before the BVI trip, I made an appointment to finally have it removed upon our return to NYC. But as the week on Tortola progressed, the cyst grew in size and finally became badly inflamed. Aided by pain pills that I always carry, I was able to do a small number of vacation things each day. <br><br>But when I awoke on Saturday morning, our first full day on Cooper, I knew something would have to be done about it. The wound was now infected. Later that afternoon, after a call to my doctor in back home, we made arrangements to hire the club's boat to take us back to the mainland's emergency room.<br><br>At the appointed hour of 9am Sunday morning Brendan, the Beach Club's engineer, met us and brought us into Road Harbour and accompanied us throughout the morning. He kept us company in the simple emergency room and he and Steve shared good conversation of Scotland (Brendan's homeland and our frequent holiday destination). <br><br>There are plans afoot to build a new hospital on Tortola. The new establishment will no doubt provided fine treatment in more modern facilities. But that day in November I received gentle and attentive care by a young local doctor and even younger, island nurse. Within 2 and half hours of care I was released with prescriptions and directions to care for the wound. <br><br>By lunchtime we walked off the club's boat and into the Cooper Island Beach Club's restaurant for a refreshing meal. My favorite Manchioneel Sandwich, which was once a staple on the menu there, was the special for the day. I suspected that Curt, the club's manager, had had something to do with that! He grinned devilishly when I discovered the treat on the chalk board and I laughed out loud in surprised delight. Instantly I felt healed! <br><br>I had been able to snorkel once on Cooper, Saturday morning. The small reef in front of the Pink House is still recovering from Hurricane Lenny (1999) and many of the creatures who hung out there are still in residence. But further down towards the club, at the rocky point, was a huge grouping of fish obviously accustomed to being feed. So friendly are they that they seemed to land in my hands if I floated silently long enough. The vicinity of the moored chartered boats didn't seem to scare them. Those little guys wait for an easy dinner.<br> <br>We never got to Cistern Rock or Quart o'Nancy on the opposite far side of the bay. <br><br>The rest of the week I alternated between happily observing the activities around us and feeling VERY SORRY for myself. The weather was light and fine. Each day we got varying degrees of rain showers that cooled us off and poured water into our cottage's cistern. Steve would snorkel and return to share his stories with me. I flew my kite for the early risers and the late anchorers when the air would allow. Every night we either ate dinner outside on our porch or, when I felt under my dismal condition, inside where we made a picnic of sandwiches and chips on the bed and played word games. On our last night we even launched my kite into the nighttime's air on the beach under the dive light's glow for anyone who was conscious enough to see its rainbow colors. <br><br>The end of our week on Cooper arrived and, sadly, we packed up in the dark of early morning and left.<br><br>Just the other day we counted our American Airline miles and booked a return trip to Cooper for two weeks at the end of April. Just Cooper. By then the dreaded cyst will history and I will again dive into the warm water to visit my fish friends and launch my multicolored kite into the air. Our laughter will be those heard at the late anchoring boats and Steve'll pour another rum punch into those gay fish painted glasses we always use. <br><br>Yes! It's all seasons on Tortola and Cooper in the British Virgin Islands!<br><br><br><br><br><br>
