TRIP REPORT – Royal Islander Christmas/New Years 2002/2003<br><br>Hi All-- We just returned from 2 weeks in paradise. We have been coming to this island for almost 20 years, and it never disappoints! The weather was the best it has been in the last 3 years, with gorgeous sunny days every day until the last 2 when we had some rain. I will break this report into categories for easier reading:<br><br>Flights from JFK, New York – no problems going down; return on Jan 4 from St. Maarten was delayed 2 hours; they searched every checked bag, and removed scissors from carry-on; the new restaurant in the SXM airport is a nice, comfortable place to hang out and watch the very active runway<br><br>Royal Islander/Maho Area – The Royal Islander looked great with lots of flowers and vegetation; the Maho Beach was pretty wide Christmas week, but the surf got rougher after New Years, and actually caused the beach to break away into a cliff at the bottom of the stairs to the beach; lots of butterflies, but also mosquitos abundant – had a few mosquitos in room each night; the hot water in our shower did not work well, but no one else we spoke with in the building seemed to have the same problem; the stores in the Maho area are all pretty much the same as last year, except Alizea has become an art gallery, as opposed to the contemporary clothing they used to carry. In addition, Selena, the shoe store, is now carrying some clothes as well.<br><br><br>BEACHES –<br>Maho Beach – as stated above, lost a lot of sand New Years week, and has a cliff now at end near Royal Islander<br><br>Great Bay Beach, Phillipsburg-- spent a day here for the first time, in front of Everyting Cool; this beach was actually man-made a couple of years ago when they dredged for the new cruise ship port; enjoyed the soft sand; we rented wave runners and banana boats; very nice beach service, like Orient, with someone bringing you drinks, food, and umbrella/chair rentals; however, after 4:15, we were the only ones left on the beach, as everyone else hurried to their cruise ships; this beach only has chairs set up and watersport rentals on days the cruise ships are in<br><br>Orient – sat at Kakao, with nice cushioned chairs and umbrella rentals; waiter brought us food and drinks to chair; masseuse was available here; daughter rented waverunner and went parasailing; took a walk down through Club Orient to Papagayos – did not see any TTOL flags<br><br><br>RESTAURANTS –<br>Temptation – best new find on the island – new restaurant just outside of Atlantis Casino in Cupecoy; weird location, but excellent food from appetizers to desserts; portions were a little small, and prices were up there with $26 – $29 entrees, but WELL WORTH IT!! ($130 for 2 with a bottle of wine)<br><br>Da Livio (Phillipsburg)– excellent Italian food as always, particularly red sauce dishes, such as chicken parm or veal parm; I miss the waves lapping at the restaurant however, since they added the new wide beach<br><br>Sebastiano (Grand Case) – still the best Italian food on the island in my book—great pastas and veal dishes<br><br>La Rosa (Maho)-- food is still very good, particularly the fried calamari and osso bucco, however, service has continued to deteriorate since Enzo left; I hate to trash anyone on this board, but the service was so horrendous, WE WILL NOT BE BACK! In a nutshell, we were a large party of 12, and they gave us a 9:30 reservation (late to start with). They did not seat us until 10:30, and we did not get our entrees until after 11:30pm. One veal chop was tough and inedible, so we tried to send it back. The owner came out of the kitchen, and told us how she only orders the best veal on the island, and a waiter told us “he tasted it in the kitchen, and there was nothing wrong with it!” When they finally reluctantly agreed to take back the veal chop, my friend tried to order something else, and was told that the kitchen was closed (closes at 10:30 pm) and the chef went home! How can you seat a group at 10:30 if the kitchen closes at 10:30???!!! I know that 12 is a large party, but if you can’t handle it, don’t take the reservation!! Enzo, We miss you!!!<br><br>Mario’s Bistro (Sandy Ground)– wonderful food and service as always; best duck and escargot on the island by far; we were a party of 10, and service was as good and fast as if were were just 2 or 4!<br><br>La Belle Epoque (Marigot Marina) – we have always gone to Brasserie De La Gare for pizza, etc. on the marina, however it is now out of business— apparently the owner just took off; La Belle Epoque is at least as good if not better, with excellent thin-crust pizza, and delicious, very garlicky escargot; there was live music on Thursday night at the marina.<br><br>Mary’s Boon (by airport) – always a great exerience! Went on a Saturday night for steak night for the first time; was as good if not better than Tuesday’s shrimp night. Beef tenderloin was so tender it could be cut with a fork!! You have to experience their honor bar and family serving style with second helpings – it is definitely a memorable evening every time we come to this restaurant; profiteroles for dessert were excellent also (they always had some sort of OK custard on shrimp night); Dicky, I asked for you, but was told you had already left—sorry I didn’t get to meet you.<br><br>Le St. Germain (Marigot Marina) – went 3 times this trip for great crepes; the restaurant has been substantially expanded with 2 brand new clean bathrooms; the kitchen must have expanded as well because usually the crepes come out one at a time, and this trip, each visit, we had fast service with all crepes arriving at the table simultaneously.<br><br>Passangrahan Hotel (Phillipsburg) – had a very lovely breakfast on the back deck overloooking the beach<br><br>Boathouse (Simpson Bay) – excellent coconut shrimp, possibly the best we’ve ever had; my daughter didn’t care for the grilled lobster, as it was doused in some sort of citrus/garlic sauce<br><br><br>IN SEARCH OF GREAT RIBS…..<br><br>My definition of great ribs, are ones that are tasty, and that fall right off the bone. My favorite used to be Pedros, but in the last couple of years, that was replaced with Turtle Pier. However, based on all of the recommendations on this board, I decided to try some new ones….<br><br>Lee’s (Simpson Bay) – flavor was a little too smoky for me, and meat was chewy—definitely not “fall off the bone” type; however, my husband says the potato salad was the best he’s ever had!<br><br>Mr Busby’s (Oyster Pond) – tasty, but again, chewy and tough to get off the bone; also, very slow service, and had to ask repeatedly for a glass of water – went on a Sunday afternoon, about 5:30, and restaurant was not very busy<br><br>Sunset Beach Bar (Maho) —they were out of ribs that day, so we had a great hot dog and hamburger; excellent rock band that day called “Jet Band”-- $2 beers and $1 shots<br><br>Turtle Pier (near airport) – still my favorite – did not disappoint this year; great “fall off the bone” tasty ribs!!<br><br><br>NEW YEARS EVE -- we had a private party for 6 families (about 25 people) in a friend’s suite in the Royal Islander. We ordered in food from Pizza Pasta and it was very good. At midnight, we watched the Maho street action from the front balcony—there were not as many people in the streets as last year), and we watched the fireworks off the beach from the rear balcony; overall, a lovely evening with good friends. And of course, followed by losses in the casino!!<br><br><br>ACTIVITIES/ADVENTURE – <br><br>Americas Cup 12 metre regatta – we did this fun sailing race last year with 18 of our friends and family on one boat racing against a boat full of strangers; This year we filled two boats of friends/family, with 11 “over 40” on one boat and 14 strapping teenagers on the other boat. Well, lo and behold, us “over 40ers” beat those muscular youngsters!! They claim they had a hole in their sail—we claim it was all the beer they drank (their cooler was empty at the end of the race!) <br>What a blast!! It actually got dark and started raining for a bit during the race, which only added to the excitement!<br><br>Rhino Rides – first time for us for this fun activity; you drive a wave runner/inflatable at about 35 mph through Simpson Bay into the ocean to Creole Rock. Then you snorkle at Creole Rock for about 40 minutes; Afterwards, you tie up boats off Happy Bay and have some sodas. Then return to Simpson Bay. A lot of fun, though snorkeling is just OK—really just some colorful fish to see. The ride is not dangerous, but your legs take quite a beating with all of the bumpy waves in the ocean. We were a little black and blue and scratched at the end of the ride. We had 8 of us from our group on four boats, and are hoping to do this again next year with an even larger group!<br><br><br>General Comments about the island…..<br>Mullet Bay area – grass was constantly being mowed, bushes pruned, etc., though buildings are still an eyesore<br><br>The new Duck Tour in Phillipsburg has not gotten off the ground yet—several problems still pending, including permits, I believe<br><br>The new road to Phillipsburg is a much quicker, more direct route to town<br><br>Cheris has the same lame show for the last 3 years – change it already!!!<br><br>Do not pay retail prices in Phillipsburg – we bought a few small pieces of jewelry and watches, and paid 1/3 to ½ of the initial ticketed price, without even asking; as soon as you show interest in an item, they immediately pick up the calculator. Bargain with them!<br><br>All casinos like to take my money!!!<br><br><br>Sorry this is so long. Hope it helps some of you. Also, sorry we missed the TTOL party on 12/30. Would love to hear some details of it. It will be a long wait till next Christmas!!<br><br>Bobbie<br>
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