TravelTalkOnline Forums Travel and Vacation Forums General Caribbean Cuba Trip report Aug 2017

Our total group was MJ and I and two other couples. We did not do this budget style, did not go crazy but this was not a group that was worried about running out of cash. We all exchanged our USD back in the US for Euros and then exchanged at the airport (picked the departures area to do this). The lines do not move fast, be patient and soon on our way. Did not personally do the math to see what was best, this is what was suggested so I went along. This all went pretty smooth. You will read me being critical of the place but I would note that we had a blast. We were not a group looking for museums and an overabundance of history. We wanted to meet the people, look around, hit some places that we could say that we have been to, and randomly find places that would feel right at the time.

We flew Portland to LA, then LA direct to Havana on Alaska Airlines. We were all in First Class so we were reasonably comfortable. Coach was fairly full, it appeared that most passengers likely had family in Havana and judging by the luggage they were bringing items down to their families. We brought some items to give away such as school supplies, and we also tipped on the heavy side everywhere we could. Some done in the CUC, some with greenbacks that they all seemed to like as well. Clearing immigration and customs was pretty much a breeze and a lot more relaxed that I would have guessed, nothing to stress out about. We all did carry on except for one bag for one person, it was a long wait for that bag. I highly suggest you go carry on if at all possible.

Once all clear of getting luggage and our currency exchange from Euro to CUC we grabbed two cabs and headed to the hotel which cost $25 per cab. We stayed at the Hotel Melia Cohiba. We considered other options such as Airbnb type places but felt that we would do the “safe” pick a nice hotel and spend the money. I am glad we picked this place but it still is not exactly like you would expect for a top hotel. Check in went smooth, the AC in the building barely kept up while there as well as barely kept up in the rooms but better than most places we went. The pool area is wearing out, the sides of the building including the windows seem like they have not been washed, pressure washed or had the trim repaired again in decades. Decades is the best I can state, no proof or way of really telling but that would be my estimate. The food and drink at the hotel is not very expensive, which is what we found in general across Havana. We ate at their Italian Restaurant our opening night because we were too tired to explore and it was decent, or really good compared to most other places we ate in Havana. Key item is that this hotel is probably one of the nicest in Havana and it still was worn from time and neglect.

We stopped next door at the Hotel Havana Riviera just for a look, I encourage you to go to their website to see what is listed in their photos. I can tell you that the photos all have to be a decade plus if not multiple decades old. Probably was very nice back in the day but now from the outside it would seem that many floors are not being used, the lobby when we entered had to have been 90 degrees. The pool was empty and looks like has been for a while, the entire place just looks like it has had very low maintenance over a few decades. Rumor has it that there is some sort of investment into the property coming but…..I would believe it when I see it. With that government over you, that would be a bad investment in my very humble opinion. There were some places maintained better than others but not by much. There were many places that were a lot worse for wear.

It was hot and humid so we spent time in the pool at the hotel prior to going into town. Basically our goal was to be in town through the evenings. Once the sun goes down and you don’t have the beating sun it was of course a lot more fun, music seemed to pick up at places and I am sure with the cocktail influence everybody was a lot more social and enjoyable to be around. We made the tourist stops at La Floridita which was very crowded but we really enjoyed the experience and the Daiquiris. We also made it to La Bodeguita del Medo for Mojito’s, another place that gets very crowded but was a blast. These are the two most expensive places to drink, not sure how much La Bogeguita but I think that we paid about $6 per for Daiquiris so compared to other places you travel this was near free. Other places we paid between 3 and 5 for most cocktails. We also went up to Ambos Mundos Hotel and went up to the roof top bar. We enjoyed a lightning storm off in the distance over various cocktails. This is also considered the Hemmingway Hotel. Another roof top bar we enjoyed was at Hotel Raquel, it was very enjoyable and had a nice view. We really enjoyed the live music and many of the bars we went to, they certainly have good musicians and singers. One of our favorite parts of the trip.

We ate at a few different places and tried to find local type places that had good reviews but if you are going to Cuba for the food you are making a mistake. What we gathered for info on this while there and I could be very wrong on this but spices are not that easy to come by and do not fit in the rations so the food is fairly bland compared to what we are used to. I love shrimp, and did not like any of the shrimp dishes we had there. Chicken was ok, the pork often was fairly dry, and the only beef I liked while there was the hamburger at the hotel pool.

Checking out and leaving was pretty easy. We paid an extra $16 for each room to have check out at 2pm so we could clean up prior to heading to the airport. That was very reasonable. It was about $30 per cab going back to the airport. Once at the airport we checked in, through security no problem and then used some of the remaining money on cocktails in the waiting area and exchanged the balance at the exchange counter in this waiting area. We almost waited in the line in the departures area near where you check in for your flights but decided the line wasn’t worth it and we could just spend it on something once past security. There are a few shops and bars in this area while waiting.

Boarding was no problem, flight home no problem and with TSA Precheck we cruised right through the LAX airport and most of us were able to get an earlier flight.

Everybody talks about “the cars” and of course so did all of us when there. There are the regular cabs which are yellow and the nice thing is they have AC. Mostly approx. 10 year old imports, but they get the job done. We did take some of the “unofficial” cabs which were the “American Cars” which is how the locals seemed to refer to them as. Probably some of our highlights of the trip were going back from Old Havana back to the hotel in the convertibles with the music up and enjoying the drive. Again, no doubt that the cocktails had some factor in that. The people that drove these cars were awesome as well.

Misc – I have not studied the Cuban people and what has happened, small stories yes but I am certainly no expert. I can only imagine what a great place this was many moons ago, back before they nationalized businesses. I have always heard that you should go there prior to them allowing the masses of the US because then it would never be the same after we threw our money around. Well, they need something because of what we saw the place is woefully maintained and deteriorating by the day. It is a system that obviously does not work, it is a bit sad to see. I am sure much of this is the supply of building products but I don’t think that is the main problem. Pretty tough thought to invest there. We were never intimidated or felt in any sort of danger. We stressed a bit with how we were going to do this or that but in the end it was as easy as any city we have been outside the US. Other than getting to see Havana, I would have zero interest in going back just for a vacation like I get in St Maarten. I do hope to go back some day and be able to visit other cities in Cuba, but the draw would be exploring not relaxing. Yes we had a blast, but, we always have a blast.

Cheers,
Todd

Great report. Thanks for giving a clearer picture of Cuba. I know you were only in Havana but I can't imagine how other places in the country can be. I have no desire to visit there, the poverty would be too upsetting.

Hi Todd

Glad you enjoyed your trip. The reason I didn't stay in a large hotel is because they are government owned. These are lacking on maintenance and you never see the help smile. With the "casa particulares" they are privately owned and for this are well maintained. Same goes for most businesses. I loved the music all day and night as we were within walking distance to Plaza Viejo.

I see you didn't do a beach day. We enjoyed that ( a pic in one of my posts).

Yeah, don't go for the food.

Did you make it over to the cruise ship area or take the tour of the Old Havana Ron museum?

Wendell

I can not really say I saw more poverty than other places, I did see housing buildings that looked less than desirable. Certainly better than my trip to India. What I saw was lack of maintenance or upkeep. A slow deterioration of what was probably really something back in the day. I see that sometimes here in my home town but not at this scale.

We walked through a bit of town, did not do any museums. We were near where the cruise ships come in but did not cross the street to that area. It was hot and humid so we only covered so much ground and we were not there very long. Tough to make agendas where you are in a group of six.

I always wondered why more Canadians did not go there for their vacations noting that they could. Clear as a bell to me now and surprised meeting some travelers from Europe that go to Havana on a regular vacation basis.

Havana is not bad, may sound like I am telling you it is but it is not. But for my vacation dollar I would choose a different place. Note that I work hard and travel a fair amount. I like to have my St Maarten and other vacations where I can really relax be comfortable and when I go to the Caribbean that is what I am looking for at this point of my life.
T

Todd--thanks for the report. I would like to see Cuba, but I think that the first time I go, I would opt for a cruise, especially since they have some now that spend overnight in Havana. I like my comfort and my food. I kind of wonder if you wouldn't have enjoyed your trip more if you did a cruise..