THIS WILL BE LONG (sorry)
Background info - we are early 30's, well traveled in the U.S. and our first time to any Caribbean island. We love good food, be it fine dining or food trucks. 90% of the time, we use AirBnB when traveling and did such for this trip. We rented a car from Kenny's and had snacks & drinks stocked by Shop'n'Drop.
My trip report must begin with our marriage ceremony. On Saturday morning, the 27th, my husband and I were married on a hill side in eastern Tennessee with the Great Smoky Mountains as our backdrop. Afterwards, we had a heck of a reception, treating our guests to all of the good Southern brunch foods, cold beers and cocktails, and a tower of donuts in lieu of a cake. We drove off in a vintage Bentley and settled into the Airport Hilton for our early departure the next morning.
Sunday: In the skies by 7:10 a.m., a brief layover in Charlotte, and then zooming off in our rental car (thanks Lesley) by 2:30. We arrived at Jolie Beach Apartments and got the grand tour. This is a small apartment building with 4 rentable units, an on-site coffee shop manned by an employee (Glenda) of the hosts, and an on-site full time resident (Ephraim) also employed by our hosts. Our unit was fantastic, with a nice big balcony over the beach. We were literally right next door to Rainbow Cafe. This was fine as it served as our own little beach bar and we got to enjoy the music. One night per week they have a mojito party that goes pretty late and is pretty loud, but we were too tired to care on that night. We made welcome drinks and hit the patio to soak in our new neighborhood. Next were our first mojitos of the week, at Rainbow. We immediately liked this restaurant and hit it several times over the week. Dinner was at Calmo's Cafe - another repeat destination for us. The vibe is very bohemian and casual, all of the guys working there were fantastic. We had specials - triggerfish for me and ribeye for my husband. Both were delicious.
Monday:Breakfast on the patio (we did this most mornings - eggs and prosciutto on fresh croissants with good Gouda, is a meal I can't soon tire of), then off to Orient. We selected Orange Fever as our spot. Let me say now, we are naturally early risers. We never went out of our way to start early in an attempt to cram more into the day, however, it worked out such that we were able to get an early start at a "new" beach, stay through lunch, then enjoy some time on "our" beach (Grand Case) in the afternoon. I liked this pattern. So, Orange Fever. Very friendly, $16 for two chairs, umbrella, 2 drinks, WiFi, etc. We were the only patrons at any of the surrounding establishments until about 10:00 and then slowly the beach filled in. We had the pizza which was recommended, and found it very delicious. The water was fantastic at Orient this day. After Orient, we stopped by Bernadine's for a guavaberry colada and some souveniers, and to make a donation. We headed home for some swimming at Grand Case before cleaning up for our reservation at La Villa. This restaurant - service, food, ambiance - all fantastic. I had grilled scallops, Mahi with an upside down sweet potato pie, and lava cake (best lava cake of the trip - very bittersweet, which is my preference). My husband had French Onion soup (best of the trip), beef filet with foie gras sauce, and creme brulee. Both of our meals were from the fixed price option, and I think a steal at $49 per person.
Tuesday: Breakfast, then a drive to Simpson Bay Beach. This was our first drive all the way through Marigot, Nettle Bay, Sandy Ground, etc. We had chosen El Zafiro as our spot and I will admit to being highly skeptical. "How on earth is it going to be that great so close to the 'airplane bars' ?" Well, this was one of my favorite beach days. This stretch of beach was so calm and beautiful; so blue and the water just perfect for bobbing about.(Shout out to you Beachside Villas fans - I get it, I really do.) Chairs, big umbrellas and tables on the beach are free with the expectation of drink or food purchase. The drinks and food were very, very good and they had nice-looking breakfast options. My husband is an aviation nerd so it was amazing to hang out in this gorgeous, pretty isolated corner of the beach and still see the arrivals. (This was perfect because we could see the KLM come in and time our exodus to Sunset Beach Bar accordingly.) As we paid up, the sweet bar tender asked "how on EARTH did you find us?". They would like to see more business. I would like to see them get enough to stay open but I did enjoy having it mostly to ourselves, I have to say. Onto Maho beach - I started here with very little patience - it was SOOO the opposite of where we had JUST been down the same road. It was not our first exposure to redneck bacchanalia in general (we live near Dollywood, so...), but it was a bit overwhelming. Please, know that I do not intend to characterize all participants of cruises in such an unpleasant way, but there was definitely an abundance of obnoxious going on. The revelry and noise and drunkenness really don't bother me, it's when people start yelling very off-color things (sexist or racist) that I just want to leave. None the less, a Mai Tai later it was time for the KLM to leave. My husband got some nice pictures, we headed to the car and checked this off our list. Dinner in Grand Case at Villa Royale - a very pleasant Creole restaurant. Good prices, nice patio dining. Creole shrimp and creole marinated steak, tempura chicken, black beans and rice. Give this place a try.
Wednesday: Today we took a beach-break, and did something pretty indulgent. We rented a cabana at Loterie Farms. What a beautiful place and day! The spring-fed pools, lush greenery, nice lounge chairs and service to our cabana made for a really memorable day. Their food was FANTASTIC. A truly insane charcuterie ( I could eat eat fresh pears, slathered in Camembert and topped with prosciutto, while sipping cold champagne, just about every day. I'll take another!) platter and the best burger of the trip. You can enjoy the treehouse bar or restaurant without fooling with the pool, or you can enjoy the pool by simply renting chairs instead of going all out for the cabana. It was our honeymoon, so we were living it up. I would definitely come back here. Note - did not see monkeys. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> For dinner, we decided to try a different part of the island. With the exception of Il Nettunio (sp?), all of the Italian restaurants in Grand Case were closed for the month, so we consulted TripAdvisor and selected Luna Rossa in Simpson Bay. This was not one of my favorite meals. The staff was kind and efficient although not at all warm. The atmosphere was kind of cold as well. We felt rushed into ordering (we finally just blurted out choices upon being asked the third time - we had only been in the building about 11 minutes at this point). My bolognese was fine, my husband's chicken parm was good. If this were in my hometown, I'd eat here once a year or so when the hankering hit. It is not, however, what I really want out of a vacation meal. To each his own. Also, for the pastas, a Caesar salad, 2 campari and sodas and an espresso we spent far too much. I will spend on a fine meal, but I don't think the value was really there on this one.
Thursday: We hit Philipsburg today. Chairs at Holland House were comfy, and came with strong wi-fi, 4 drinks, showers, and access to the very clean indoor bathrooms (Which, I accidentally walked into the men's room. OOPS.) Good people watching and not necessarily something we'd feel the need to do again when in P-burg for shopping. It worked out well though, as we could take turns at the chairs, swimming, one of us would wander Front street a bit, come back with purchases, and we were never hauling all our loot at once. When we were done, we didn't have far to go to the car (bobby's marina). We had a mediocre lunch at Taloula Mango and retreated happily to Grand Case. Dinner tonight was Calmo's again - I had a fabulous flank steak and my husband had a Creole chicken dish. Nutella lava cake for dessert <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" /> so good.
Friday: Baie Rouge. It was very beautiful, but the sea was a bit rough for me. We hit Gus's for lunch (disappointing ribs, OK burger). Drinks from Chez Raymond consisted of a margarita made with....vodka? OK, it was tasty. We stuck around a couple of hours before going home to swim in Grand Case. Neither of us found Baie Rouge enchanting enough to repeat. Dinner tonight was a real treat - Le Cottage. Their fixed price includes wine pairings, and I think it's something like $79 a person. I did this, my husband did not. The wines were all very sweet and for the last course he just gave me a sip of scotch in lieu of the dessert wine. My lobster ravioli was delicious, shrimp risotto to die for, and molten cake with Valrhona chocolate was quite good. My husband had French Onion soup (his least favorite of the trip), a wonderful beef tenderloin and a very good creme brulee.
Saturday: after a quick trip to Phillipsburg to pick up a few items we'd procrastinated on earlier in the week, we decided to hit another part of Orient today. Although I'd read mixed reviews on Waikiki, we selected it and did not regret the choice. Although Orange Fever was fun and cheap by comparison, I wanted to experience a different part of the beach and not sit [censored]-to-elbow with quite so many other people. Chairs are spread out, $20 for two and an umbrella with chair-side service. There was a lot of seaweed here but it didn't really bother me. The ocean was ROUGH today but fun. We went up to the restaurant for lunch and the food was delicious. My nicoise was great and my husband's burger was pretty good as well. They do an $18 lunch buffet most people seemed to opt for, with grilled meats, fresh fruits, and lots of roasted Dinner tonight was a real doozy. Le Tastevin. We feasted on lobster & foie gras terrine, chicken and risotto, duck breast, and creme brulee. A bottle of Sancerre and plenty of bread, overlooking the ocean. A truly delicious meal and memorable last night out with my husband to end our trip.
Sunday: we figured out pretty early that our flights were cancelled, and over all our schedule delayed by about 3 hours. We decided to spend the morning driving to areas we hadn't fit in earlier in the week. It was pretty great, I must say. First, I drove through Quartier d'Orleans, Oyster Pond, Dawn Beach. (my husband had purchased a new camera and was taking photos). What an amazing and beautiful drive! the overlook built by the Rotary club at Coralita provided a breathtaking view in every direction. The sea felt so wild here, and looked unlike any other place we'd visited on the island. We drove on down to Mr. Busby's from there. Westin is really putting the moves on tourists with their timeshare game.They have fresh-faced teenagers driving around Oyster Pond in rental cars, approaching you in your car as if they need directions or have a question. Then they hit you with their work up. Go away! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/duh.gif" alt="" />. After this we drove to Anse Marcel, and boy howdy did I give the driving duties back over to my husband after we got there. The hill, in that little car, is not for the faint of heart. A lovely area which we had hoped to spend beach time on, but discovered Anse Marcel Beach club / restaurant closed for the month the day we arrived. We decided to hold off until the next trip for this spot.
Then, we packed up and hit the airport a bit early. This worked out well as we didn't mind perusing some specials in the duty free area. My husband collects fine Rhum agricoles as well as Caribbean cask rums that are difficult to get in Tennessee. He made out like a bandit on this trip.
We had a fantastic time. We both cannot wait to return. We would stay in Grand Case again - it suited our tastes and needs in a vacation. Next trip, we hope to try Pinel and perhaps visit Anguilla for a day. We didn't have a single "bad" meal or visit a "bad" beach, rather, enjoyed the different experiences and made a mental note of what we could live without next time. Mid-way through the week we discovered the LOVE hotel in Grand Case. It has the BEST pre-dinner drinks bar overlooking the ocean. It was our go-to spot for watching that beautiful Grand Case sunset and watching the lights come on Anguilla. Also the only place I found who could make a proper martini. We loved this spot, the view, the staff, the vibe, etc. We also fell in love with GrapeWine near Hope Estate area. Great French couple selling gourmet picnic items and tons of great wine and spirits. Although I've nearly typed a novel, I'm sure I'm leaving so much out. Thanks again to everyone here on the forum for entertaining my questions, and providing reports of your own, form which I gleaned so much information for planning this trip. My husband and I will no doubt return to the friendly island.
