Photos located at:
http://s805.photobucket.com/albums/yy334/Dalefmiller/Tortola%202010%20April/Tortola, April 13-20, 2010: Deb, Dale (‘Dale’), and Norma (‘SoakInSaltwater’)
We left the Detroit airport at 07:10 on AA right on time. After a brief stopover in Miami, we arrived at St. Thomas at 2:30pm, again on time. Having packed everything in carry-ons, we jumped in a van/cab and paid $10 each for the short ride over to the Charlotte Amalie ferry dock.
$30 each got us on the Native Son about 4:20 and less than an hour later we set foot on West End Tortola. Since I had filled out my entry paperwork in pencil, the nice customs lady gave me the “opportunity” to redo everything in pen (I should have known better using my crossword puzzle pencil in the first place).
Jerry was waiting at the dock as he promised, and he took us down the road a little ways to get our 4wd Wrangler Jeep. He did ask a couple of times if the two door vehicle would be big enough for the 3 of us, and we said sure. We should have listened to him…the lack of a rear door was a pain for the backseat passenger(s) all week. If we had full size check-in luggage, we never would have squeezed everything in the Jeep.
Having been elected 2 to 1 to be the driver, I tried my best to adjust to driving on the left side of the road. I told the girls not to hesitate to remind me to stay to the left, and they took me at my word quite often! The steep narrow roads and crazy switchback turns kept me on my toes before arriving at Myett’s on Cane Garden Bay…our home away from home for the next week.
We were warmly welcomed at the office, and taken directly to adjoining rooms #4 and #5. We were pleasantly surprised to see the large size of the rooms which included a double vanity, bathroom, shower/bath, small refrigerator, coffee maker, and porch overlooking the garden. Only once all week did we lose water pressure for a brief period of time, and never lost electrical power…things we’ve come to expect and adjust to on our trips to the Caribbean.
Myett’s bar and grille was booked for a private party that night, something that we turned into a positive for us. Looking for a drink and something to eat, we walked the short distance up the beach to Quito’s, the home of Norma’s favorite island entertainer. After a couple of Painkillers and dinner (excellent salad for me), Quito started his solo gig, and we danced the night away. We met Larry and Candy from N.C. (among others), and we continued to see them throughout the week. I left the girls at Quitos, and headed back to Myett’s where I had a nightcap and listened to the party’s entertainment, The Third Dimension, play their last couple of songs. They were very good.
Wednesday: Even though we knew Wednesday was a cruise ship day, we risked the influx of visitors at CGB and staked out three beach chairs early. Having been there for about an hour, I figured it was time for a bucket of beers (good price at 6 bottles for $15) and came back to the chairs with the six pack figuring it would last for a while. While I was away, the girls had began a conversation with a couple from Chicago (Kathy and Chris) and they were very quickly joined by their friends Deb and Dave. I happily returned to the beach stand for another bucket in short order. We continued to see this foursome throughout the week, and Kathy even spent some time extra time with us at Smugglers Cove and Sopers Hole while the other three talked house construction details.
Deb arranged for a mid-afternoon massage at Myetts while Norma and I walked across the street to Bobby’s grocery store to get some essentials (beer, crackers, cheese, etc.). We made reservations for Bananakeet for dinner that evening, an excursion that had a memorable ending. After enjoying a wonderful meal and entertainment, and staying for the fabulous view of the sunset, it was fairly dark when we left. Knowing I needed to “stay to the left” as I was being approached by an oncoming vehicle on a turn, I got a little too far left and got stuck in a runoff drain. Within 5 minutes, four local men showed up and pulled us out. I gave them $20 in gratitude (feeling I was being a little cheap), but they refused to take anything, only wishing that we enjoy our vacation on their island!!! What began as a mini nightmare ended with a fond memory I’ll never forget. We often experienced similar kindness of the local people throughout our stay.
After enjoying a drink and good cigar in Myett’s garden (can’t smoke in the bar), the girls went upstairs and I walked up the beach to the Big Banana I think (in the dark and in my condition, the different building colors of Stanley’s, Rhymers, Elms, and the Big Banana along the beach aren’t as easy to differentiate). A local “Bob Dylan” rasta man was playing guitar and harmonica, sounding incredibly like the original. At the bar I talked to Bill a while, a forest fighting pilot in the USA, one of only about 50 in the country. Very interesting stories about a very dangerous job. At age 34, he was hoping to survive to a retirement in about 10 years!
After breakfast at the Big Banana on Thursday, we ran into Kathy and she joined us for a day at Smugglers Cove. A little tricky to find with a road that is a little rough, beautiful Smugglers offered some isolation from the crowds and some snorkeling reefs.
Patricia had drinks available at her beach stand, and she cooked lunch for us as well. Her companion Caddy rested himself under the palms on a nearby chair as we talked for a while…I was trying to stay out of the hot midday sun. We talked again to Larry and Candy, and also Toni and Mike of TTOL (Norma was using her coozie which Mike recognized).
We left about 2:30 and first drove to get gas near West End. I had seen the signs earlier showing $3.85 for gas, and feared that was per liter. To my pleasant surprise, I discovered they use gallons in the BVI which made the price reasonable. We then stopped at Sebastians and bought some rum to drink and to take home at $15 a bottle. Later we wrapped dirty clothes around the bottles and shipped one of our carry-ons as checked luggage (extra $20 to AA) and they arrived home without any problem.
Back to Myett’s, then had a couple small pizzas at the Banana, drinks and music at Quitos. I left the girls early again, but they didn’t stay much longer after I left.
Friday was our scheduled day sail with Patouche out of Hodge’s Creek near East End. We left CGB about 7:30 in the Jeep intending to take the Ridge Road most of the way. After missing a turn (easy to do when roadside signs are at a minimum), we drove through Road Town and then to the marina, arriving early enough to enjoy a breakfast at the restaurant overlooking the boats.
Seas were a little rough as Felix and Clive motored the catamaran most of the way to Virgin Gorda and the Baths before putting up the sail. Snorkeling from the boat to the beach at the Baths was challenging, and that meant I was unable to take my camera for what would have been some great photo ops. It was easy to see why this natural wonder is a popular site for visitors.
Back on the cat and hoisting the spinnaker (big sail??…excuse me but I’m not a boater) and off to Cooper Island. Much better snorkeling at Haulover Bay, then back tracked to the newly renovated Cooper Island Beach Club for a tasty lunch.
The seas seemed to be calmer on our way back to Tortola, and we announced our return to the marina blowing loud wails on conch shells (a nice little touch). We again tried to take Ridge Road back to CGB, stopping about 5 times to ask for directions. We finally got totally lost, but once again a nice local couple (their car plates began with “PV” for Personal Vehicle while ours began with “RT” for rental, we assume) suggested we follow them and they would get us back on the correct road. Another example of the friendliness of BVI.
Norma discovered her VIP package had been delivered to Myett’s office (this was her 16th visit) when we got back. Showered (still getting used to the low water pressure compared to back home), changed and off to the Elm for BBQ with other TTOL’ers – Toni & Mike, Orangeburst, Saildoggie and the Fly Boys. I had the ribs, but they also had chicken and fish along with the rice (w/beans), cold slaw, and bread. Very good.
Saturday was a day to recuperate, and knowing the cruise ships were not in that day, we stayed at CGB. The locals were having a big party at the park nearby, but fortunately the DJ and loud music stopped early evening. We discovered we had no water pressure about 4pm, but they got the pump working again soon after we let the front office know. Ate dinner at Stanley’s, with Norma having lobster, Deb conch fritters, and grouper for myself. Early to bed.
On Sunday, we had breakfast at Rhymer’s which was to become our favorite due to a menu that allowed you to eat a small or large breakfast at reasonable prices. Try the egg croissant w/ or w/o cheese…scrumptious! We walked about 100 yards up the beach to Julian’s Baby Bull at 10:30 for a water taxi to Jost. His nephew Leon took us three and a couple (Lisa and Dave) who were going to stay two nights on Jost. After dropping them off at Great Harbour, we headed over to White Bay for painkillers at the Soggy Dollar (of course) and a Roti lunch at Gertrude’s.
(After returning home, we noticed our Soggy Dollar cup from 5 years ago identify Debby and Bruce as proprietors, and now the cups show Tish and Jerry.) Mustang Sally pulled in to White Bay while we were there so we had the chance to meet Dirty Doug and Wicked Wendy. With Leon still with us, we motored back to Great Harbour and a visit with Foxy. He seemed to be in good spirits, but we understood he is in poor health.
Jumped back into the twin 200hp outboard and off to Foxy’s Taboo bay (didn’t get off) then swung by Sandy Spit on the way back to CGB. Our internal batteries were running low, and we didn’t even have dinner and got to bed early.
Monday, our last full day, began with another stroll down to Rhymer’s for breakfast. Kathy again joined us for the day, beginning with a drive over to Soper’s Hole marina.
I spent much of the time at Pusser’s West End, drinking a beer or two while talking to some Southern boys as well as a gentleman from Sweden. This is when I first heard about the volcanic eruption on Iceland, and he was concerned about how they would get back to Europe. We went back to Smuggler’s Cove since it was on the way back to CGB and spent a couple of hours relaxing on the beach and enjoying Patricia’s food and libations. Again ran into Larry and Candy as well as Mike and Toni. When we returned, we printed off our boarding passes for the next day’s flight at 3:30 at the office, and settled our bill. Had a drink at Myett’s bar listening to the Candyman, then went up to Quito’s for the Roast Pig dinner. Kathy and Chris joined us for dinner. The meat was a little disappointing but tasty.
Departure Day: Tuesday began as the only day we really had any rain (other than during the night) all week. Following breakfast at Rhymer’s again, our voyage home began without incident. We found out the departure tax at the ferry is only $5, but hear the tax via air from Beef Island is $20. We got back to the Charlotte Amalie airport a full 3 hours before takeoff, but since the crowd was thin, we arrived at our gate with 2-1/2 hours to spare. I had a very hearty bowl of chicken soup at the Hibiscus Café near the gate. The soup included potatoes, dumplings, and chicken still on the bone and was quite tasty. The return air flights were on time, and we arrived in Detroit about 11pm.
