After trying a couple of other islands last year, we decided to go back to SXM. This was our second visit for 2009. We had been there in July already but, when we spotted a really good deal for a week at Maho, we decided to grab it. After all, we have had a pretty miserable summer in these parts. For example: of the 92 days of summer, 46 of them had rain and on only three days this summer did the temperature reach 85 degrees F or higher. Since my tropics-born better-half likes the warmth, we decided that another week in SXM was in order.
We flew Canjet, a really bare-bones charter but reasonably comfortable and generally dependable. When we walked out of the baggage pick-up area, Lesley Bruce was waiting for us with our car. As usual when dealing with Lesley, just few minutes of paper work and we were on our way. Thanks again, Lesley, we always enjoy dealing with you.
At Maho, our room was not quite ready, so we had lunch out at the Palm Grill there, watching the sea and the planes. Our room was ready soon after, a refurbished room on the 7th floor, actually the same room we had last trip.
Just a quick note about rooms at Maho: It appears that the odd floors are designated smoke-free and the even floors have rooms in which you can smoke. However, in our room, we constantly had the scent of cigarette smoke coming into the bathroom, especially in the morning. Must be something to do with the ventilation but it was quite unpleasant. The public areas of the hotel and the bar permit smoking and in those areas, the scent of cigarettes was not a problem. As I said, must be something about ventilation between rooms/floors. And please don’t take this the wrong way. I don’t mind if other people smoke and I’m prepared to put up with it in public areas but, to me, a No Smoking room should really be a “No Smoke In Room” arrangement.
Saturday, we drove around the island, checking on places we like and marvelling/gasping at the amount of construction that is going on. At Orient, our favourite spot, Le String, was closed as were many of the other beach bars. When we went back on Sunday, things were a bit busier but not much. Le String was open and Ray, one of the owners, was there. Jean was on vacation so Junior was in charge of the beds and umbrellas. He very kindly supplied us with an extra umbrella on each of the three days we spent at Le String during the week.
We ate lunch at Le String one day – shared the calamari and a pizza, as we were looking for a “snack”. A lot more than a snack and very good, served at our beds, right by the ocean. My idea of heaven: time spent on Orient Beach, under a big umbrella, with the waves creeping up towards the beds, with a good book and someone to bring drinks and food now and then. Aahhh!
Monday we went into P’burg to do some shopping. It was very quiet, several of the shops closed. I assume they are closed due to the slow season and will open up again when the tourist traffic picks up but several shop-keepers we spoke to suggested that the economy as much as the time of year was making things slow and might continue to do so for some time.
Tuesday we set out again for the beach and spent part of the day at Le String. We left early, to have lunch in Grand Case. Talk of the Town was closed as was Sky’s the Limit, so we had to eat at the Rib Shack. Not the best food, that’s for sure. As we left, we checked to see if TOTT would be open later in the week and were told that it would. Great, we thought. We’ll come back and get our fix of lolo food.
Alas, this was not to be. We went to the beach on Thursday again and, again, left early to get lunch at TOTT. The place was open, with all new people running the show. The food was not at all good and played havoc with my stomach even before we were half way back to our hotel. Hopefully, they were just having an off day but somehow, based on what I have heard from my other post about this, I think maybe this was just a taste of things to come. Too bad. TOTT was one of the highlights of our vacations in SXM for a long time. That and Lee’s which appeared to be closed and in need of staff every time we passed. As a result, I really did not get anywhere near enough seafood on this trip. Not good.
Cheri’s café was closed so the area around Maho, especially at night, seemed very quiet. No problem, we just went and spent money at the Casino. They now have a system where you earn points for whatever you put into the slot machines. For 200 points, you got a Casino Royale cap. My husband bought 12 of them home and is handing them out to all the neighbours, family and friends. When they all get together in them, they are going to look like some strange gambling/sporting team.
On the Wednesday, we decided to go across to Anguilla. We caught the ferry from Marigot and at Blowing Point decided to take a taxi tour rather than rent a car. Two ladies from Georgia asked if they could come along with us so the four of us set out with Howell, our taxi-driving guide. I have to say that I felt a bit sorry for these ladies. They were staying at Sea Palace in P’burg, had never been to Anguilla before and had been encouraged by the social director or whatever at the Sea Palace to go to Anguilla for the day. I think that that person should have known better. Just about everything related to tourism on Anguilla was closed. The museum that they particularly wanted to visit was closed as were art galleries and craft centres. We had a heck of a time just finding somewhere to have lunch. Uncle Ernie’s was closed as was the place next to it and Gwen’s Reggae Bar and Grill just up the road. Many hotels were shut down, too. We finally found a place to eat, just as we were fainting from hunger. I think it was called Café on the Veya (sp)?? Mostly salads and Panini. Not bad but, as the two ladies were hoping for local food, not even close in that regard.
We did, however, get a tour of the new Viceroy Hotel. OMG! What a place! Next year is a significant birthday for me and I have put my husband on notice that I want to go there, even if only for a couple of nights. Fabulous! I could spend forever just lying on one of the beds beside the infinity pool. The rooms were spectacular, each one with a water feature on the balcony, either a hot tub or plunge pool. The interior decorating was amazing, done, we were told, by the wife of one of the owners. If you get a chance to have a look at it, or better still, stay here, do!
We also had a look at Cap Juluca, which was also quite beautiful. I’d stay there, too, if Viceroy was full.
Coming back in to Marigot, the Police Nationale checked our passports and gave mine and my husband’s an extra inspection. We have a French name – maybe that’s why? Don’t know but, at any rate, they were very polite and they were all extremely good-looking as were most of the gendarmes we saw around the French side. That should surely help with tourism, n’est pas?
We ended each evening in the bar at Maho, having a quiet drink and talking to some of the folks who had flown down with us. Everyone seemed to be having a good time. However, there were complaints from some about the mosquitoes at night at the outdoor dining areas. I’m glad we didn’t eat there, as the mozzies love me.
Although we had the AI plan at Maho, we did not eat dinner there. We did have breakfast there, though, at the buffet out on the Ocean Terrace which is great as you have a view of the sea and any planes that come in early. The food was fine and I have now learned to avoid the pancakes and waffles and bacon and other stuff that packs on the pounds. Too bad I can’t avoid the ice cream!
Just a note: the golf course at Mullet is as bad as ever but people still play it. Too, I was surprised to see a small army of men whacking the weeds and raking up dead grass and leaves around those dilapidated shells of the old hotel rooms. I guess if they didn’t, the place would be an even bigger eye-sore than it is already. Sad that nothing has been done about that place. It is a huge tract of land with a beautiful beach. I wonder, after all the wrangling that has or has not gone on, if it isn’t too late, considering the overall state of the economy, to make something of the Mullet area again. I do hope, one day, to see it cleaned up and re-built.
The weather was good, warm and sunny most days. We had a bit of rain one day during lunch and a heavy downpour one evening but nothing major that would ruin a day. No hurricanes, so I guess we can be thankful for that.
Friday was our departure day. We drove to the airport and quickly found Lesley who took back the car. Canjet was early and we got back to Toronto well ahead of schedule. All in all, it was a good holiday, quiet, but that’s O.k. I think we are getting too old for excitement.
Cheers!
