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The Low Low Season – September 20-29, 2009

USAir was good to us both ways, arriving early from and to Charlotte – we arrived about 1:15 (?) into SXM terminal on Sunday, September 20. We were done with immigration – almost no line – waited briefly for luggage, and then met with the young fellow from Unity who drove us over to the lot. Sharon had arranged delivery of the phone to the lot and Michael had us on our way in record time. Although we have had good experiences in past with other local car rental agencies, we always check first with Michael now. He gave us a Toyota Corolla, which was very nice and worked fine. We stopped at Cost-U-Less because Grand Marche was almost closed as we came to circle at Bush Road– we were there about 1:55 and the Grand Marche closes at 2 on Sunday. I went into Cost-U-Less, instead, it closes at 3 on Sunday, and grabbed a bunch of stuff – prices were good. The cashier confided to me that she had the flu – oh, well.

There was very little traffic across island to Orient Bay and we were at Bruno and Geraldine’s Paradise Bungalows about 2:40 – amazingly fast arrival from touch down to arrival at Orient. Bruno was in Miami until Thursday and Geraldine got us situated. Geraldine and I managed to break or at least render inoperable the safe in our room, so we used the safe in an adjacent room – we were the only ones staying with them. This was our first time with them when they had the pool and it was very nice to be able to take a swim in the evenings, in particular. Given Bruno’s love of projects, I expect the bowling alley to go in next.

We had great weather the entire week – we have been very lucky – the closer in time we have come to the peak of hurricane season, the better weather we have had. The worst weather we have experienced has been in early December. The best has been September, October, and June – in that order. Of course, we simply have been lucky. When people ask us when is the best time to go to SXM weather-wise, we just say to pick a time and take your chances! (And, consider getting the trip insurance.)

This first afternoon on Sunday, we walked down to the beach and hung out there until we walked back up to have some dinner in the room. In getting out of town before the trip, I had a few things to finish up and wound up getting about 45 minutes of sleep Saturday night, so I was pretty worn out. In general, we did not maintain the frenetic pace we have maintained in past trips. I also made considerable use of the wireless connection that Bruno/Geraldine provide – a couple of “really nice people” managed to put me in a situation of having to work several evenings and the wireless connection was absolutely essential. Geraldine had warned me that the connection was not good in the room, but OK on lanai or at pool. I found the best connection at pool and it worked fine there. It was OK but a little spotty at table on lanai.

Monday morning we started to get our basic routine for the nine days established – I would get up quite early, before 6 usually, and drive down to beach (actually, I walked this first day before deciding it was much nicer to be able to drive back up the hill) – then, I walked, jogged, and just enjoyed the early morning on the beach. There were very few people on the beach in the early mornings and some days there were very few people on beach in afternoons, as well. The wife would sleep in and then walk down to beach and meet me. At first I got us our pain chocolates at Tap 5 (which opened at 7), but then realized that I should just wait til 8 and get some breakfast stuff from the Store at Club O. The Boutique had much better prices than Tap 5 on everything I bought and the people there were extremely nice, as always. Club O was great, as always – it simply is unique in our view. The Perch is closed until later in October, but the restrooms were open, at least throughout the time we were there – they did still have the bar across the doors when we left the beach about 8:30 Tuesday morning but I would think they were just a little later opening them that day.

I saw Andy and his gang working on the new building most mornings. He told me that he was going to open in mid-October. We missed eating at Baywatch but the silver lining is that we saved some breakfast money.

Monday, after early morning beach, we drove to Divi Little Bay and snorkeled. The Tiki Hut is gone and there is now the Sea Trek Snuba thing there. Apparently, Omar did away with the Tiki Hut and rolled the semi-sub (Odyessy) on its side. They have installed a ramp walkway on the sea floor and positioned stuff to see along the way – sort of Disney in effect. We saw no one using it while we were there. We ate lunch in room 167, which is the temporary substitute for the Gingerbread Café, which is undergoing renovation. The same waitress we have always had at Gingerbread was there – she cracks me up with her “style” – I think she strikes people not used to her as rude when she really is fun to banter with. I went in Jody’s place as always and Jody stopped by while I was there trying to start a labor dispute between her and her cashier. After Divi, we stopped at Grand Marche on our way back to Orient and picked up a few more things.

Tuesday, we just hung out on Orient. We swam over to Green Key and snorkeled there. Visibility underwater was very good here and everywhere we went this week. The snorkeling was good out along point toward Pinel. Conditions were pretty good and it was easy swim over in a little less than one half hour.

Wednesday was Scoobi day. We went on Scoobifree to Prickly Pear. We thought Prickly Pear was not looking too good – snorkel-wise. Still worth going, but kind of disappointing. We think that the number of day sails going there has had a negative impact and the reef is not improving, but getting worse. The Scoobitoo was in drydock and so we were on Scoobifree. Scoobifree is a beautiful cat and we enjoyed sailing on her – but, in our opinion, it is not as good as a snorkel excursion boat with a group as Scoobitoo. In any event, we had a great time as always on any of the Scoobi’s. Our Captain was Matt – who looked way too young to be a Captain - and the first mate was Claire. Matt was very nice and let the wife take the helm for a bit – she very much enjoyed that. Like most of the excursion boats, Scoobi has had trouble getting customers – a very low season this year. This Wednesday trip was the only one they made while we were there, I think. I called and talked with Stephane on Saturday about the Anguilla/Tintamarre Sunday cruise which they had hoped to do, but they had only 2 people sign up and had had to cancel. The Tiko only went out once, I think, on Thursday, while we were there – I had considered the possibility of going Monday the 28th, but not enough were signed up even with if we had signed up. After our return to GCBC, we drove down to Grand Case – easily found parking on street – never had that happen before - and ate at the Rib Shack, our favorite lolo there. We had a good meal at the usual very low price.

Thursday was Random Wind day. We always plan to sail with Random Wind. Di and Trevor were our crew – we finally rated the best of the team! Like Scoobi, they were having a hard time getting people on board. We had a great day. We anchored off Baie Rouge for snorkeling and lunch. The snorkeling east of Baie Rouge, past Devil’s Hole, was the best we experienced this trip – the reef is coming back strong there. We have been there many times before but the visibility there this trip was the best we have experienced and it was very good snorkeling. (Many times we have been there and could not see much of anything.) After Baie Rouge, we stopped off at La Samana and snorkeled along the wall there. We saw an octopus – as we did the last time we stopped there – that is my reliable octopus spotting place.

On Friday morning, I stopped and talked with George as he was setting up chairs in front of Pedro’s – as you may know being a reader of TTOL posts, he sets up chairs and umbrellas right in front of Pedro’s and then between Club O sign and Pedro’s. I asked him about why no more sand sculptures – telling him how much we had enjoyed seeking them. He sounded pretty discouraged about it – telling me that no one tipped – even people taking pictures while he was there hardly ever tipped apparently – and people walking over even large works destroying them, like his Last Supper last year – he also was getting no more contracts from commercial businesses. I gave him a tip – telling him it was to make up for the times I had not tipped him in past – and it seemed to cheer him up some. Saturday, the next morning, he had made a sculpture of a woman - he said it was just for fun and he told me of a project he was going to do for a birthday party coming up. I gave him a small tip, telling him I enjoyed seeing it. By our last morning on beach, Tuesday morning, he had redone the woman and had added a man and a dog. We enjoy his work in any event, and hope he keeps doing it. I think his sand sculptures add to the beach and if you agree and are there, please encourage him to keep up his work.

After the early morning beach time on Friday, we went to Baie Rouge and got chairs and umbrella from Gus’. We had a great day there, staying til’ 5. The snorkeling was again very good. We ate at Gus’ – feeling a little guilty at not saying hi at Chez Raymond – which has been a regular place for us to go in past years. The food was good – everything was very fresh – kind of a contrast to the Rib Shack, which is OK, but just not as fresh or as good. Later in the day, the bartender, sensing my weakness, in a shameless marketing ploy, gave me two free samples of a very nice pina colada. Immediately recognizing her attempt to pressure me into ordering a somewhat larger quantity drink, I succumbed to the fierce pressure put on me and ordered one. Very tasty. I did not snorkel as much in the afternoon.

Saturday was Pinel Day, after the morning beach time at Orient. We allowed a half-hour to drive over the ferry and it took us ten minutes at the most. It was a little after ten when the Captain decided to take us over – the smallest group to take first ferry over we have experienced. $7 round trip per person, as it has been for awhile. Oliver and Yellow Beach were fine. Two chairs and an umbrella were $15. The snorkeling was OK, but like Prickly Pear, disappointing. The old metal ramp into the water is gone, replaced with a nice wooden set up. We think that they get a lot of people going into water there and things were not looking as good as they have in past, at least as things looked to us. As all over the island – except the Philipsburg parking lots – things were very slow on Pinel – very few people.

Sunday was Bay of Prunes day, again, after morning beach time on Orient. The snorkeling was very good off Plum Point – the north side of Bay. Not quite as good as Baie Rouge, but close. Very few people there when we were there. After the snorkeling, we went to Karakter for lunch – the place was packed, as was Mary’s Boon – which made parking interesting. A very nice lunch – service was a little slow, but that was understandable, given number of people there. We had not been to that part of Simpson Bay before and it was interesting to see it.

Monday, during morning beach time, we walked over to Le Galion and looked around. Amazing that remains of old hotel still stand as they do. We drove into Philipsburg and learned that every car on the island was trying to drive around and park in Philipsburg on this day. We now knew why no one seemed to be anywhere else on the island. We usually park in the Salt Pond lots and walk over to Front Street but they were jammed and I finally drove over to Bobby’s Marina and paid the $1 a hour there. The wife went to Endless Summer on Front to shop for a suit – we then drifted down Front and wound up at DK Gems. The wife got some nice souvenirs of trip. A bracelet needed adjusting, so we went and ate lunch at a place on Boardwalk – Barefoot something??? - bought some other souvenirs and then picked up purchases at DK Gems. This night was first night of Oktoberfest thing at Club O and we had dinner at Papagayo – very enjoyable.

Tuesday, we hung out on beach until we had to go back to room to pack up and get going. French-side drive to airport was complicated by the fact that we, and a bunch of others, got behind a truck that had a very hard time getting up hills between Grand Case and Marigot –traffic was busy other way and no way could get around it. No real problem, but we got to airport a little before 11, instead of 10:30 or so. We quickly checked in – there was no line at USAir counter. We then drove to Sharon’s at Royal Palm - stopping to see the 11:30 raising of the bridge - and returned phone. We had a very nice lunch at Lee’s before turning in car to Joseph. I had forgotten to buy gas, but he just stopped at the Texaco on way to airport and I paid the $32 to fill up the tank. In the airport,I quickly discovered (or did I know this from before???) that the wifi connection was free and I signed on and kept busy online, with wife wandering all the shops, until it was time to board. While otherwise occupied in the internet world, I did see a highly suspicious couple make contact with a young woman carrying a DK Gems bag and I had concern for the safety of the flight with such characters apparently intending to board the same plane, but the flight worked out OK. I know I should have said hello ….

The passage of time continues to accelerate and I find that incredibly annoying. We did no day trips off island, despite having thought seriously of taking advantage of Winair sale to get over to Statia and/or taking ferry to Anguilla. We never made it to Dawn and only swam over to Green Key once. Despite the number of previous trips, we packed too many clothes by an order of magnitude – well, one of us did…. In any event, a wonderful trip to a wonderful island!