Well, the depression has set in! The hubs and I just got back yesterday from 10 wonderful days on the island. A little background about me for those who don’t know – my family is from St. Martin, going back generations. I, however, was born in the states. So despite the fact that I’ve been coming to the island for 35 years, it’s mostly been with my family, so I never really got out and *saw* SXM until a few years ago. And you lovely TTOLers have a lot to do with that! So, with that out of the way, let’s get to it!

Thursday, Dec 24
Flight down. We flew US Airways down, via Charlotte out of Dulles. No worries or problems. Was met by the Unity folks, whisked to their lot, signed the paperwork with Michael, and we’re on our way. Yippee!

We drive the “back way” thru lowlands to get to my parents house in Colombier. I basically try to avoid Simpson Bay and the main strip in Marigot at all costs, even if it means driving longer. We hit no traffic and soon see my parentals, brother and fam and sister.

That night, the hubs, sis and I go out to Grand Case to get drinks somewhere. I had read so much about Calmos Café that I couldn’t wait to try it. Oh, too bad it’s closed. The new parking lot is full (a common occurance we’ll find), so we park on the street and try to find something. I remember folks talked about Le Shore, so we go there. Yum! Great drinks, awesome vibe, wonderful view of the twinkling lights of Anguilla. I highly recommend this place.

Christmas!
Ugh. Church in the village is 7am. The dutiful daughter that I am, I decide to go. I tell my dad to make sure I’m awake by 6. So what does he do? Leave without waking me up. As my sister’s walking out the door, she points out that it’s 10 to 7. Great. We scramble and are only 10 minutes late, but everyone notices. Anyway, that little story has nothing to do with touristy stuff, but I wanted to share. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

Ok, the weather today was HORRIBLE. Normally we have a big outdoor xmas buffet at my cousin’s house in Cripple Gate. Well, after the deluge, that wasn’t happening. But the party moved indoors, and all was made well by some REALLY strong guavaberry rum. So strong that I spilled some on myself.

That night, we kids decide to head out to Grand Case again. This time Calmos Café was open. This place is a solid grade A winner. The staff was super awesome and friendly, the food was great, and the drinks strong and plentiful. My sis in law would make a return visit with her mom who loved it as much as we did.

Saturday, Dec. 26
Hello, can I get to a beach please? I finally spend a day on a beach at le Galion. We got there early, and it’s a good thing we did. It got packed. The food and drinks were as good as I remembered and the beach was nice and calm for my nephews.

Sunday, Dec. 27
If it’s Sunday, it’s Guana day. Oh wait, they’re CLOSED? What? Do they not know how long I have dreamed of the old Scavengers chicken sandwich??!! And I was supposed to meet Jess there, and my cell phone was working, and and…oh well. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif" alt="" /> We met my brother at the entrance to Guana and told him to follow us to Simpson Bay and check out this Karacters place that everyone keeps talking about.

OK folks. The cat is out of the bag. This place ROCKS. And you know I generally avoid the Dutch side! When we arrived, it was cloudy. By time we got all our chairs situated, it started pouring. And kept pouring. We huddled under some umbrellas and kept the drinks flowing. As my sister said, it was like a campfire, without the camp, or the fire, but with alcohol and outstanding food. The staff was great as were the other rain-soaked patrons. Hey, you’re at the beach – you’re going to get wet anyway, right?

Monday, Dec 28
Had to take care of some stuff in Marigot in the morning. Then we walked around the market, picked up some spices, and met my brother and fam at Bar de le Mer. It was my first trip back to this place since they stopped making the snapper burgers (years ago). Food and drink were once again outstanding!

That night, we got my aunts and uncles together along with my fam and my bro’s fam for a fantastic dinner at Yvette’s. Seriously people, if you have not eaten here, you are missing out on some of the best West Indian food you will find on the island. Yes, they could use a new carpet, and maybe new furnishings. But who cares! I’m not eating the chairs. I’m eating that delicious pan fried snapper that I get every single time. It can not be beat. The Johnnycakes, the saltfish cakes, all the food…outstanding. And for 13 people, a VERY reasonable bill.

Tuesday, Dec 29
My sister also had friends meeting us at Guana, so we rescheduled with them for today at Karachters. We’re all excited until we get there and read that they are CLOSED on Tuesdays! Reading is fundamental folks. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/duh.gif" alt="" /> We rush back to Sapphire where they are staying and manage to catch them before they leave. We decide to go to Friars, an old favorite.

It was here where I realized how crazy the seas were. I HAVE NEVER seen this beach like this. The chairs were on the grass because the water was so high. I’ve never seen such rough and high waves. It was crazy. That aside, once again the food and drink at Kali’s is outstanding. Another perfect day.

That night, the kids head to the lolos in GC. We always go to Sky’s the Limit. We managed to snag the only open table. Service was SLOOOWWW, but I will forgive them because it was jam packed. They were out of johnnycakes which I find unforgivable. So as soon she took our order, my brother and I walked to Talk of the Town and relieved them of their last 6 johnnycakes. Our server laughed and was quite understanding. No johnnycakes is a deal breaker folks! Food was good, drinks cheap, company fabulous.

Wednesday, Dec 30
Sad day. Saying goodbye to both my brother and sister today. Take my sis to the airport, have a milk chocolate from Kaffe, and tearfully say goodbye (she lives in Italy, so I never get to see her). We don’t do much that night. I cook a fabulous meal for the parentals and the hubs and drink a bottle of rose…myself. Don’t judge.

Thursday, Dec 31
Shopping day! Go to Ma Dou Dou and put a dent in my wallet. The café rum is OUTSTANDING. We then FINALLY get to Hilma’s Winsdor Castle (in Simpson Bay, across from Mailbox). It was everything that dreamy Anthony Bourdain said it was. And cheap. The saltfish johnnycake is a must!! After a yummy breakfast, we then head to phillipsburg to get some goodies from the Guavaberry emporium.

The weather was iffy all day and we decided not to head to Kalis for New Years Eve in case the heaven’s opened up (we probably should have just gone). So we decide to see what’s up in GC before heading to Boo Boo Jams. Since we saw that Le Shore was open, we went there again. Had great drinks again, free champagne and saw 5 different fireworks over Anguilla. Lovely.

Friday, Jan 1
We decide to head to Karacters again to meet up with Jess (success this time!). The hubs and I get there really early, and thank goodness. Who knew those crazy Dutch gathered every New Years day for an annual dunk in the ocean!! It got super crowded. But even with that, the service was great (our same favorite folks were there), drinks still outstanding, and the vibe great.

That night we stay home with the rents.

Saturday, Jan 2
Our last full day on the island. Sad. I convince my parents to actually join us at the beach and after a trip to Marigot, we head to Friars. Our beach guy from earlier immediately recognizes my dad (small island), and hooks us up with the perfect spot (shade for mom, sun for the hubs). We chat with Kali who of course knows both of my parents (small island), have another wonderful lunch with awesome drinks. We have dinner plans, but we stretch out every last bit of beach day we can. Oh, and the sea was much more normal today. Chairs were on the sand.

For dinner, my parents treat us to dinner at Mark’s Place. I’ve been before, but the hubs had not. As usual, they were packed, and as usual, the food was great. I had the panfried snapper with scalloped potatoes. Yumminess tinged with sadness.
<img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif" alt="" />
Sunday, Jan 3
We pack, my mom makes johnnycakes to go with breakfast (I take the leftovers home), we head to the airport. My parents, for whatever reason, must travel to the airport to see their kids off. They took a little too long to get there tho, so when they arrived, we had already checked in and were ready to go thru security. A few minutes of tearful goodbyes (and no milkshake) and we’re on thru security. Oh, and for the first time in 35 years of travel, the lady at the second passport screening asked for the bottom of my immigration form back. So…hold on to them!

The actual lines thru security machines moved quickly, despite the volume. The real problem comes at boarding. Sigh. This was disorganized. I used miles to upgrade to first class because ALL my flights leaving SXM are delayed/problematic somehow. They never called first class or zones for boarding. Folks just started lining up. Me being who I am, I got in line right away, so we were among the first to board the bus to get to the plane. Did I feel safer given the new carry on search and pat down? Um no.

Once we finally fully boarded, the captain informed us that air traffic control in San Juan was “overwhelmed” so we couldn’t take off. Ugh. Our 4:30 flight didn’t leave until 6:15. This, I said to hubs, is why I upgrade going home and not coming down. Thank you nice United flight attendant for keeping the drinks flowing! They went well with the johnnycakes. Once we got in the air, the flight was fine, but super bumpy coming into DC. Despite my dramanine, I still got an upset stomach. We breezed thru immigration and customs and got home. One of my choco coco rum bottles broke in transport, but I had put it in the suitcase with the dirty laundry, so I wasn’t too upset. On a whim I brought an extra bottle at the airport, so there ya go.

Random observations:

Crime. Was I or a member of my family a victim of any crime? Knock on wood, no. Someone clearly tried to break in our car, even tho we left it open at all beaches (per Michael’s instructions…always ask first). Did I ever feel unsafe? Only when coming back from the Westin (where my brother’s inlaws were staying). We took the road along the coast and man oh man, is that desolate. Do I know anyone who was a victim? Yes. A friend of many in Colombier was murdered on New Years Eve. The good news is they caught one of the perps trying to leave the country at the airport. The bad news is that this happened in the first place. And coming on the heels of the AFOO murder, it has many jittery. I have many thoughts on this, but I will not turn this into a crime post.

Traffic. It was terrible in the usual places and at the usual times. We often would travel the back way (thru lowlands to get to Simpson bay or past Orient to get to Philipsburg) to avoid the bottlenecks, but sometimes you just get stuck. Oh well. No point in complaining about that.

Weather. Christmas was terrible during the day. Apparently the day after xmas it rained like that again in Colombier, but at le Galion we had 3 minutes of drizzle. The island is weird like that.

All in all, another GREAT trip to the island. I’m extremely sad to be home in this frigid weather in DC. So I guess I’ll just have to start planning my next trip! Thanks to all who helped with information and those who post trip reports. My siblings were impressed with the new places I recommended and I owe it all to you guys. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Thumbsup.gif" alt="" />

Sorry this is so long!

AF