TravelTalkOnline Forums Travel and Vacation Forums Southern Caribbean Martinique in Jan

I am remiss in providing a Martinique travel report...and at this point, am relying on my old noggin.

Summary

Martinique is a lovely french island where locals share stories about Canadian visitors who were one of the first tourist groups to the island (I interpreted to mean Quebecers are an important tourist market), and others share how they have traveled to or lived in Montreal. The southern part of the island is served by a well maintained highway system flanked by sugar cane on both sides, and every so often a homestead on a hill, overlooking the fields. Shops and restaurants were very inviting with helpful and skilled staff, often sharing the source and uniqueness of their products. I did not see much chinese tchatkas here.

Go to Martinique if you are comfortable driving on long stretches of highways with many small villages to create interest. Food service was impeccable. It is so nice not to be interrupted mid bite and provided with ample opportunity to bask in the stunning sunset. As for the beaches, Plage des Salines is the most stunning beach of the south and worth a long lazy afternoon visit.

Nitty Gritty details

I arrived late at the airport due to Winair flight delay. As it was past 10pm, the taxi cost 140 euros to Ste Anne. They have an app they use on their cell. Ste Anne is a charming village with plenty of intrigue to capture your adventuring spirit for the day. There is a mid sized expensive grocery store with Canadian bread (what is that??? I think it had a blue maple leaf on it too lolol), a few restaurants and night time bars with a live band on the water near the pier. From the bus station you can take a bus to Plage des Salines for 2e10. The ride is about 10 mins or so. Last bus at 4:30pm.

At Plage des Salines you will find an unpaved road with a handful of beach bars. These line the road away from the beach providing ample shade and a relaxing atmosphere, no loud boom boom here. Walk through the narrow shaded area towards 2km of white sandy beach and calm waters to serenade you to dreamland. On the water side there are one or two big beach bars, and way down at the far end is a restaurant.

There are a few entertaining characters with creative flair selling their pareos, dresses, pants, tops, etc. It's a good visual distraction. They are non intrusive which is such a blessing. Looks like they made good sales on the day I was there as I saw them being approached many times as they walked up and down the beach in a fashion show attitude.

From here, due to an airbnb issue I taxied to Trois Islets (100e) which is very fun to explore. Creole village is a well placed plaza with unique shops (parfume, brazil hand made reed/mixed materials purses and jewelry, white linen store (same one as in sxm), etc. Nearby is a laundromat. The small beaches here are calm. Refreshing but nothing to write home about. Restaurants line the beach from Le Marin towards Creole Village.

Here you will find three ferry docks that will bring you to FDF in 20mins... if they sail, that is. When I was there, the pay machines were broke so it was free. I understand a new company took over. Two of the docks are a short walk apart, so I chose the marina ferry which I was told was more reliable - it was 1.5 hrs late.

There is a small, expensive grocery store here that carries so little, I wouldn't rely on it. This depanneur is near the casino - note you need id to walk in the casino.

In FDF is a large indoor market with mostly the same items found in grand case, marigot and p'burg. Spices, rhum, veggies, etc. There were some unique trinkets. Here there are a handful (including upstairs) restaurants with good local food and priced affordably. I think I paid 23e for fish, side, beer and simple desert.

I visited a small museum for 4e. This was worth an hour of so for a short study on the populations that arrived centuries ago. Do visit the historical library with preserved ancient titles. Here they also had a small art exhibition.

The taxi to the airport was 50e from Trois Islets...so you should rent a car... though you can take the ferry to fdf for a much more economical option and taxi from there, and when the ferry is on time, probably just as quick as a taxi at a fraction of the cost.

On my last night in Trois Islets, I heard loud noises in the distance. I could not figure out where the celebrations could be found... not to worry, the marching band came to me. They marched from the Creole Village to le Marin. There must have been 40-50 band members of all ages... dancers, conch, trombone, trumpet, and of course drums. The little ones were so cute. They were practicing for Carnival. They had events the first weekend of Jan in FDF for Carnival... so if you are looking for some fun, Fort de France is it!

Note about the airport. It is quick and efficient, very modern... though I was shocked at the few shops airside. There is duty free of course and a shop with hand painted ceramics, and such as well as a Love store. I think there was only one take out spot to eat.

Summary

Martinique is a classy french island where the service staff try to speak English with the tourists. Mostly, I recommend a google translator to make the experience as enjoyable as possible, unless you are french of course. The southern half of the island is a wide open space with low rises and a welcoming atmosphere. The restaurant experiences were exquisite. I had a fabulous tuna tartar (2 4 1 drinks from 5-6? pm) across from the Casino.

Many swear by Martinique rhum... I found it fortified to a % that was not to my liking though Trois Islet bartenders are expert Mojito mixers. I was addicted. Do you think it was the crushed ice?

Now for the Martinique or Guadeloupe question everyone contemplates at this stage. I like both. There is no clear winner.

Gwada

Much larger than Martinique
Frances 2nd? largest shopping mall. It was impressive with all the french fashions in one spot. A grocery store as well.
Deshaies is a small village. There really is no beach. Here I could not find a rental car the first week of dec as it is high tourist season. Rent your car from the airport at a higher fair to save yourself some time.
There is a large transport bus from Deshaies to a bus terminal. It was only a few euros for the fair.
The tropical rain forest has the most magestic leaves I have ever seen... larger than a standing human.
French is an asset.
Crime may be higher here (unconfirmed, thru discussions with the locals)
I heard alot of "toute suite" meaning right now.

Martinique

Very similar to Gwada
I preferred Fort de France to Basseterre for the daytime vibes.
Ste Anne is for quiet and quaint getaways
Trois Islets is for the later evening crowds (though it didn't seam to go to all hours of the night like Simpson Bay)
Food and service were top notch
French is an asset
Don't rely on the busses on the southern half
FdF has modern city busses with a lovely park/beach near the Fort Louis
There is a section for alcohol drinking which is self serve. The food tables are full service. Please observe this if you want proper service.

Regrets

I didn't get to to St Pierre, the Savanne des Esclaves, Mount Pelee, or a distillery. So, Martinique... I will be back.

I hope you enjoyed the read and this helped with your next journey to Martinique.

Thanks to ttolers who provided suggestions many months ago. I appreciate you.

Great report. Those taxis certainly appear pretty expensive. I never like to rely on a taxi, prefer to use the local bus when available but, nearly always, rent a car wherever I go.

Thank you for such a great description of "l'île aux fleurs".

I have been living there for 14 years and have no intention of moving elsewhere.

Yes, St Pierre and the other destinations you mentioned are well worth seeing.

My favorite is St-Luce where live. A small fishing village that had no buildings and is very authentic. The best place to stay is "Le Hameau de St-Luce". On the beach and within walking distance to the village and fish stalls. The Kilo of fresh Tuna goes for 13 €.

I would recommend renting a car next time. Try out local specialties: Accras de Morue, Boudin antillais, Sauce chien etc.

Instead of learning French, try Creole, the locals are very taken when you try to speak there real language. You can also use Creole in St-Lucia and Dominica.

Local buses in Martinique are often on Strike.

Jeannius, Martinique and Gwada are indeed two countries that renting a vehicle is the best option. I had no luck with public transport and though I enjoy the bus adventure, i too will rent a stick shift car.

In gwada a rented from Sixt at the airport. They were expensive and reliable. I also rented from a backyard local. The manual shift car smelled like urine. It was the only rental available between Deshaies and the airport... oh well, lesson learned for 25e per day. Never again!

In Martinique, i waited about 2 hrs for the short bus to la plage... i was told busses dont run at lunch. So I missed out on a second les plages day and wandered until I stumbled upon...i met tourist who shared that it took them all morning to bus from fdf to ste anne. I am not sure if they made it to la plage or the nearby Salines boardwalk.

People's Bar (long walking distance) was my diversion that day. You can pay to use their pool. Ample parking and great music. They close at 6pm daily, if i recall.

As many have pointed out, a rental car is an essential... or prepare to be very flexible as you wait....

Thanks very much for the report. A very enjoyable read. Do you have pictures you could share?

Carol, yes indeed I have a few pics to share. Ill upload them tonight.

Also, i note my previous message... a clause about Peoples Beach Bar should have followed the three ellipses (...)a few sentences earlier. Sorry for crappy editing.

Here's an added gem.. Always wear bug spray and sleep under musquito tent. I am of the belief that local bugs need local bug spray, btw.

Dengue is not your friend. They even warn you of the symptoms and risks on Air Canada flight prior to take off...both for people and luggage. And of course in eng and french..lol that's how you know to listen up.

Word. you def don't want dengue it is not a good souvenir... the second time could be worse. I may or may not be speaking from experience.

Hi Carol,

My cell's file formats are blocked... my apologies as you will have to use your imagination for pics of the marching band (ages 5-75), roads with no potholes and a secured sidewalk, fabulous tuna supper, and views of Fort de France from the ferry.

Bonsoir,

Cc