10-15 yrs ago I drove the entire island one end to the other. we were basically on a road trip to get a feel and didn't do any water activities as we were following that with a week on a friends boat in Tortola. Rain forest in the center was neat, people were very friendly. Western tip was not real impressive as far as lodging but the food was great. We had been in the San Juan area many times so didn't spend much time there. This probably doesn't help you a lot but it's been too long for anything major to stand out.